Balenciaga SS23
10-word show review: Tactical fare for the sartorially daring, from bags to dresses.
Designer: Demna
Location: Parc des Expositions de Villepinte
The vision: Demna knows how to put on a show. For Balenciaga’s spring/summer 2023 showing, the Georgian designer rallied troops to the Parc des Expositions de Villepinte just outside of Paris. Upon walking in, the audience was greeted by an ominous, deep ditch of mud, that at first glance, looked like the gravity-defying landing of the moon. “One needs to have courage and persistence to truly assume their identity and who they are. Every day becomes a battlefield to defend this unique identity,” read the press notes neatly perched on each seat. It was clear from the first few seconds that, just like Demna’s prior shows, this was not going to be one of cheer and laughter. It was instead going to be a sobering expedition, merely bridged by fashion.
Signature silhouettes: As the booming soundtrack by BFRND rattled the venue, Kanye West walked out decked out in the collection’s first look: a tactical jacket with a hood, trousers, boots and a Balenciaga mouthguard. Models with bruised faces soon followed suit in familiar silhouettes, only this time, altered for mud instead of snow. In Demna’s spring/summer 2023 arsenal: oversized and slouchy leather jackets, gloves that seared through large tote bags, clogs that came in glittering variations and long bodycon maxi dresses in pink and white.
What to shop from the collection: Though potentially intimidating just based on presentation, it is hard to contest the wearability of most of Demna’s designs. Those who favour daring and statement-making accessories should most definitely get their hands—pun absolutely intended—on the gloved totes as well as the glitter-coated clogs. And if you’re not quite sure where to start with your Balenciaga collection, the shiny puffer jackets and maxi dresses strike as failproof options.
Valentino SS23
10-word show review: Glamorous evening fare in the form of logomania and gowns.
Designer: Pier Paolo Piccioli
Location: 4 Rue Perrée 75003 Parigi
The vision: At Valentino, it’s all about making a statement. While attendees took cues from Pierpaolo Piccioli’s previous season and turned up in the maison’s bright pink designs, spring/summer 2023 proved to be a clash of colours. It’s hard to tell what might be the next hue to reign supreme in Valentino’s universe. In the audience? A star-studded front row from brand ambassador Zendaya to Naomi Campbell.
Signature silhouettes: As far as glamour goes, Piccioli has been able to reinvent classic red carpet and evening cornerstones for a young, fashion-conscious audience. The maison’s logo found new life not just on translucent capes and shoes, but also wrapped across model’s faces. While shimmering gowns glided across the runway, sequinned inserts were imagined as low-waist skirts, coats and on mini bags.
Who it’s for: Since Piccioli’s reign at Valentino, he’s been adamant about making Valentino a brand for everyone, without compromising on the show stopping quality of its heritage and designs. That being said, we see this collection resonating with those looking to really get noticed, so if you have an upcoming soirée or special occasion, this might be the line-up to peruse.
Givenchy SS23
10-word show review: Los Angeles meets Paris via denim coordinates and ruffled collars.
Designer: Matthew Williams
Location: Jardin des Plantes
The vision: “The urban tastes and uniforms of Givenchy’s France and Williams’s America, cultivated since the mid-century, unify in a reflection of the shared global dress sense of the digital era,” reads Givenchy’s press notes. Given American supermodel sisters Gigi and Bella Hadid walked the runway for the maison’s spring/summer 2023 decked in quintessential hybrids of both worlds, the cross-cultural mood of the season was crystal clear from the first look.
Signature silhouettes: As the audience took their seats on cork blocks at the Jardin des Plantes, the sun began to peek over the clouds after a short stint of rain. Williams’s signatures for the maison glistened under the welcome sliver of sunlight: bralette and skirt combinations with striking metal cuffs, the ever-so-popular tank top now emblazoned with the sparkling Givenchy logo and sheer white ruffled collars expertly paired with chunky cargo pants.
What to get from the collection: Williams often shines with this technical know-how when it comes to accessories. This season, a slew of viral-worthy accompaniments peppered the runway. With Look 3 came an oversized tote bag with metal cuffs; Look 31 presented a more compact version of this in a metallic sheen and Look 35 offered a textured accoutrement in the form of a top handle bag. The collection’s shoes delivered too: from an angular mule in striking green and grey to knee length lace up boots, Givenchy’s motto for spring/summer 2023 seems to be one of stylish, reckless abandon.
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