Dries Van Noten SS23
10-word show review: An homage to all fashion lovers: from minimalists to maximalists.
Designer: Dries Van Noten
Location: 49 Boulevard de Vaugirard
The vision: In a dimly lit warehouse graced by the likes of Ella Emhoff and crew, Belgian designer Dries Van Noten presented his first womenswear assortment in over two and a half years. The theme of the afternoon? Optimism. In light of impending springtime, the mood in the air was one of steady expectancy: and for the fashion set, Dries Van Noten is as consistent as it is effortlessly uplifting.
Signature silhouettes: As part of an expert crescendo, the brand’s spring/summer 2023 collection was released in pockets. First, an inky line up of black on black ensembles, from languid oversized jackets and midi dresses to midriff-baring crop tops to clutches with tassels. Then, a shocking helping of electric blue sequins (Look 21), tapered off by gathered fabric fashioned into statement flowers. The audience was treated to milky pinks, greens and blues in the form of oversized shirts and wrap skirts before an explosion of unapologetic florals and ruffles. The finale felt like a trick eye experience: with the details of each look interspersed between clothing and accessories.
What to shop from the collection: It is hard to think of a Dries Van Noten line up as anything besides immensely covetable. From the resurgence of the brand’s instantly recognisable and often imitated half-covered heels to the sequin clutches, the collection seemed to deliver on its unspoken promise of desirable cult items to cop this season.
Acne Studios SS23
10-word show review: The daring-meets-familiar rebirth of a cult fashion brand.
Designer: Jonny Johansson
Location: Palais de Tokyo
The vision: An entire room, from carpets, bedding and walls, drenched in pink; waiters with knee-high glitter socks offering champagne and cocktails; a medley of tunes switching from melodious to morose. For spring/summer 2023, Jonny Johansson looked to the eccentricities of weddings, which seemed especially appropriate given that this marked the tenth anniversary of Acne Studios in Paris. Amongst the guests? Kylie Jenner and Little Simz.
Signature silhouettes: The collection was as eccentric as its inspiration. While the very first model walked down the runway in a mini lace wedding dress topped off with a blue bow, the mood was quickly offset with wildcards that seemed both daring yet familiar to the Acne Studios brand. Case in point: lilac leather coats spiked with leather, sleeveless maxis with slivers of skin exposed and gingham coordinates in various combinations and cuts; all skilfully teetering between reserved and risqué.
What to shop from the collection: There were many details, both big and small, that proved viral and wardrobe worthy. First, the knee-length seashell earrings; then, the sideways bucket bag that came in baby blue, iridescent black and white; and finally, the gingham kitten heels that accompanied the full-checkered looks. For statement lovers—and perhaps masochists, to a certain degree—spikes found themselves on the base of bags and on loafers, strategic, sexy and oh-so-kitschy.
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Look 7, Dries Van Noten SS23
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Look 7, Acne Studios SS23
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