Vogue’s best looks from the Ferragamo spring/summer 2023 show

10-word show review: The new Renaissance meets a modern take on classic tailoring.
Designer: Maximillian Davis
Location: Seminario Arcivescovile di Milano

The vision: Ferragamo under the fresh hands of Davis felt youthful, especially when seen up close. Tone-on-tone cape trench ensembles that came with matching gloves ignited a flurry of frantic clicking of everyone’s phones. As the show progressed, the idea of sparkles and that bewitching sunset cast on Roman sculptures sent forth a series of drape dresses that were dyed in a degradè effect and cut in devil-may-care proportions. Truly showing off his work as a young designer: slinky and sexy with plenty of ideas, though perhaps a tighter edit could have made his vision more precise.  

The vibe: Held at a Neoclassical monastery where the space is transformed into a sand-like scape engulfed in a fiery shade of scarlet. Rather than sand, the particles were tiny little crystals made from recycled materials—posing an interesting arc of rebirth as the models marched around the courtyard.

Signature silhouettes: Sexy proportions, a dropped waist here and an interesting drape there, is truly the hallmark of Davis’s needle. We saw the intriguing use of cotton, a widely used T-shirt material, made into a tunic instead (Look 28) whilst leather was polished for an ultra-high gloss finish (Look 42)—all giving a sense of vigour to the looks. The only question in mind today is perhaps: Will the eventual drape dresses (Look 65) that hit the store be as sheer? 

What to shop from the collection: The beautifully made shoes and bags for this season: from the Wanda bag (first introduced in 1988) but reinterpreted into a sleek pochette to the red lace-up sandals that are great for summer when paired with shift dresses or just your simple Levi’s 501. As for clothes, see definitely the jeans encrusted with red crystals (Look 31) and the leather bomber jacket that was cropped and felt fresh (Look 42).