Vogue’s best looks from the Prada spring/summer 2023 show

Prada SS23

10-word show review: Classic Prada silhouettes made to look like contemporary paper mache.
Designers: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons
Location: Via Valtellina, Milan

The vision: ‘Touch of Crude’ was first seen through the peephole of a paper black box that came with the Prada invite, perhaps suggesting an idea of working with something quite conventionally unacceptable. And unconventional in the Prada universe usually equates to an exploration of a different kind of beauty; at today’s show, creased markings (as if these clothes were packed away in the basement for a century) sit deep on mannish blazers, boxy sweaters and dresses. Something that had been deemed ugly and unrefined suddenly felt vulnerable, ultra-cool and modern all at the same time. And night coats for daywear? It seemed like everything is possible inside the Prada doll house.

The vibe: A collaboration with director Nicolas Winding Refn saw the entire Prada set built out of paper with squares intentionally torn out to mimic windows—lit up to look as if someone was watching television in the other room. Music, as usual, came in a mish-mash of tracks that felt almost mysterious to the senses.

Signature silhouettes: Prada’s classic tailoring from recent times came in full swing as boxy suits (Look 54), squarish sweaters (Look 14), long johns (Look 6) and slip dresses with a trompe-l’oeil effect (Look 11) were the overarching form. Colours were kept to a minimum as cool greys, pale ivories and charcoal claimed centerstage amidst monochromatic tie-dye prints in vermillion, golden yellow and mocha that paid homage to the hippie collection from back in 2004. The white trimmings around the neck and hemlines were made to feel new once again. As the show came to a close, the idea of a ravaged paper doll dress emerged via cleverly tucked and twisted slip dresses (Look 49)—proving that a moment at Prada always leaves much to ruminate over.

What to shop from the collection: Definitely the squarish sweaters in camel, the incredible trompe-l’oeil effect dresses and the cool pointed-toe shoes that come in a myriad of colours and will pair well with skinny jeans or slinky ribbed knit dresses.