In the cold snap that has descended upon London, reprieve emerges in the form of Chanel’s latest enclave. It is a blaze of colour and warmth amid the city’s greyscale; an immersive exploration of the tenets that form Chanel Beauty spearheaded by the most intriguing creatives of today. I am first introduced to them via a short film, screened within the hushed walls of Space House. This architectural wonder and event space is known for its brutalist interior and is currently transformed according to the maison’s distinctive style codes. Projections render the walls a deep, saturated red, accompanied by silky photographic prints that flutter softly in the breeze—all of which serve as the backdrop to an intimate encounter with the maison’s make-up maestros: Ammy Drammeh, Cécile Paravina and Valentina Li, also known as Cometes Collective.
Shades of sensuality and self-expression
The cosmic trio had arrived in the capital of England a mere 48 hours ago for Chanel’s Colour of Allure celebration. The two-day event pays tribute to the three luminaries’ work for the house so far, encompassing an impressive array of game-changing eyeshadows, blushes and more that showcases each individual’s unique and keen grasp on colour.
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“As a kid, people would ask me about my favourite colour. And every time, I would change my answer. It would be green or pink or blue. At this precise moment, though, I’m really feeling magenta,” muses Drammeh. The Gambian-Spanish make-up artist has 15 years of editorial and cosmetology experience under her belt, having worked on the visages of Adwoa Aboah, Debra Shaw and Harry Styles before she was inducted into Cometes Collective. “I love it because it’s a type of red, but also a type of pink,” she continues. “It’s also a type of purple. It stretches so much, where it can be super powerful but also feminine and soft. I like the versatility of it.”
It’s safe to say that this is a sensibility echoed by the other members of the Cometes Collective. In Paravina’s case, this is evident via her take on the Ombre Essentielle. The deceptively minimalistic single-pot eyeshadow boasts a dizzying scope of uses. For one, each compact contains two highly functional mini brushes. The tapered applicator means that the Ombre Essentielle can be used as an eyeliner, while its white foam rendition is perfect for anyone looking to pat on high-octane shimmer onto lids. Its lightweight, buildable texture is the cherry on top, giving users the option of choosing between a sheer wash of colour or an intense swathe of pigment.
“I’m wearing it today because I didn’t have much time to get ready,” Paravina discloses, leaning in conspiratorially. Among the 14 shades she has come up with, her hue of choice for today is 222 Jade Facetté. This dreamy seafoam green is a nod to the tweeds Gabrielle Chanel crafted for her summer silhouettes, and also provides a peek into her rich inner world that brims with motifs and references from vintage books, museums and Tumblr.
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“I grew up in a village, so it was difficult,” she explains when I express my surprise. “There were no particular events or concerts or anything. Tumblr was my window to the world and my window to culture.”
Show your true colours
It is a stark contrast to Drammeh who was brought up in Spain, one of the largest and most populous countries in southern Europe. And yet there’s no denying the profound bond that exists between the members of the collective as well as Gabrielle Chanel. For Li, it is pure connection, discovered through further research on the enigma herself.
“In the beginning before I created my first collection for Chanel, I got the chance to visit her old apartment. I learnt more about her art and her design and her craft, and then I came across this picture of her on the Internet wearing a marinette,” recalls Li. “Then I realised her first boutique for hats was in Deauville, this seaside resort in France. It dawned on me then that she must have really loved the ocean, just like I did.”
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And so Li’s 12-piece spring collection for the maison was born, a series of azures and indigos that comes in various mediums. Think a long-wear eyeliner that is the Stylo Yeux Waterproof Pencil in 82 Bleu Abysse, as well as an illuminating powder dubbed the Lumière De L’Océan Exclusive Creation. In line with the other creations from Cometes Collective, it exhibits a type of flexibility that allows it to be employed in a variety of ways.
It’s fair to say that some would find the practicality behind the new age of Chanel make-up ironic. Luxury beauty, after all, is typically associated with frivolity and decadence. And yet, there is something about this bold statement that speaks of authenticity; a true understanding of the term, freedom of expression. Or perhaps it is a reflection of the times and the maison is ahead of the curve when it comes to gleaning the needs of the consumer of today. Paravina, at any rate, seems to think so.
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“I think very much like Gabrielle Chanel. I have this rapport to design that is both functional and a distillation of the present,” she says with a rueful smile. “There’s a quote of hers that says, ‘I want to be of what is now’. I am constantly asking myself, ‘How do I feel in the present?’ and ‘How do I make something relevant for now?’ I mull over these questions in my approach to creating new colours as well as textures. And that’s all there is to it.”
This story appears in Vogue Singapore’s January/February ‘Resolution’ issue, available online.
