Ammy Drammeh. Valentina Li. Cécile Paravina. To lovers of beauty and those in the know, these make-up artists need no introduction. Yet since joining the house as the Chanel Cometes Collective, these creatives are poised for stellar levels of global fame.
Li, a Guangxi native, was informed by her agent while on a shoot one fateful day, and described the top secret news like “fireworks blooming” in her body, while Barcelona-born Drammeh recounts the call from Chanel as an “incredible, pinch me moment”. As the surreal experience of their collaboration with the storied French house has subsided, the work itself has come to the fore. I sat down with the three luminaries to learn about their diverse perspectives on beauty, their vision for beauty and all the products they’re creating under the umbrella of the Chanel Cometes Collective.
Describe your personal beauty style versus the considerations you have in mind when creating for Chanel’s Cometes Collective.
Drammeh: They both go hand in hand. I like to create things I would use on my own and simultaneously, products that I would love to have in my kit so I could use them on other people. I keep things simple, so I like products that are versatile and that I can bring with me everywhere. Even if I go for something bold I need it to be quick and fuss-free. This translates into what’s in my mind when I think about innovation.
Valentina, if money were no object and technology were no boundary, what dream product would you create?
Li: Make-up should be playful and experimental. A lot of the time, the colours you wear represent who you are and your emotion. I love the idea that you can create multiple looks or endless looks by using a few products. I would love to create smart, multi-use products; one that can do it all, one that can change colour and texture according to the person who wears it. For example, a lipstick that changes colour according to your body and your mood. Or an eyeshadow that changes in texture and colour according to the environment that you are in. In fact, lots of plants and deep-sea creatures already have this function. We are moving forward to achieve that, I believe.
What were the most astonishing things that you learnt about Chanel Beauty when you joined?
Paravina: I was shocked to discover how long the entire process takes to release a make-up collection (more than two years!). This time is necessary to ensure that all tests are conducted and guarantee a high-quality product. I immediately understood that it is one of the reasons why we don’t design based on temporary and ephemeral trends at Chanel Beauty, but rather based on things we believe are going to be relevant for a long time.
Cécile, how does a self-described free spirit like yourself honour your instincts while also respecting the codes of a house as storied as Chanel?
Paravina: The codes of Chanel resonate greatly with us. The way that Gabrielle Chanel would design was first and foremost an egotistical act. She created clothes and accessories for herself, for her own needs and the lifestyle she wanted to pursue because she couldn’t find a wardrobe for herself in what was available at the time. This uncompromising way to design gave birth to the timeless pieces we know from Chanel. Ammy, Valentina and I appreciate that very much and try to emulate the ethos of Gabrielle Chanel and adapt it to today. In this way, I think that being ‘free-spirited’ isn’t opposed to navigating Chanel’s large repertoire of references.
Valentina, where did your obsession with the colour blue first stem from and how do you connect with it spiritually?
Li: My special passion with blueness is my statement to our planet. Mother Earth is covered with 71 per cent of blue; when you look up, the sky is blue. Blue for me is essential. The first day I swam in the ocean, I felt at home being surrounded by water, with the blue. I feel calm and free and inspired and also grateful.
One of your missions is ‘to make what is old new again’. How do you achieve this newness and innovation while creating in the context of Chanel?
Li: ‘To make what is old new again’ is really a question about how to play with classic elements and modern twists. We honour heritage by drawing inspiration from iconic styles, then infusing them with contemporary innovation. We reinterpret classic beauty concepts to captivate modern audiences. Our approach blends tradition with cutting-edge vision to create make-up that is both timeless and trendsetting.
How can we have fun, and be bold and audacious, when creating beauty looks of our own?
Li: First, you need to have an open mind, the attitude of trying and experiencing colours that you’ve never tried before. Second, you need to know who you really are, what you really like. Pay less attention to the trends all over the internet, think more about what is really for you. Be careful not to fall in a trap and lose your own identity in the end. But don’t worry if you haven’t found yourself yet. Keep an open mind and play with the colours and make-up. Just enjoy and have fun. You will find your own relationship with colours and make-up eventually. I found my blue, so will you!