“The chives are potent here,” quips Kirk Westaway, who has just ordered his second dose of Vietnamese coffee. We’re sitting in an alleyway at a local coffeeshop in Ho Chi Minh City, just two days from the grand opening of The Albion by Kirk Westaway at the Hôtel des Arts Saigon. Now on the intriguing topic of perennials, the Devon-born chef has plenty to say. In fact, it was what sparked his attention about the locale in the first place when he visited Ho Chi Minh City and saw his bowl of pho inundated by a pile of herbs. “It was 50 percent pho and 50 percent herbs. They really go over the top and I love it. I really think the world is not utilising it as much as we should.”
Anyone who has had the English Garden experience at his other, 2-Michelin star restaurant Jaan would know anything plant-adjacent would naturally strike a chord for the famed chef. And here, in Saigon, he’s all too happy to be using locally grown vegetables and herbs for the dishes at The Albion. His first-hand experience with that said bowl of pho inspired the entangling burst of flavours that one gets with the first bite of his favourite starter at his new restaurant, The Albion Tomato. Where the fruit comes to life; through a homemade ketchup as sweet, tart juices amalgamate all at once. A cold basil and orange sorbet and a gathering of Vietnamese sweet basil heightens the herbaceous experience. Within, a pool of creamy burrata serves as a comforting equaliser.
It’s clear that Westaway honours the exact region he’s placed in, not by way of cooking up a bastardised version of pho, but putting the country’s wealth of agriculture in the forefront of The Albion. He references the country’s organic mecca, Dalat, where 90 percent of The Albion’s vegetables come from. “It’s fantastic that I get to come here to work with the local farmers and local ingredients. One more layer is that Vietnamese people love the fact that we’re using local vegetables. It’s a moment of pride for them to say, ‘wow these are local tomatoes’.”
Head chef Christopher Clarke, who had previously worked in Britain’s top kitchens, will run the show here whilst Westaway continues to be at the helm of Jaan. The two who have been longtime friends, both admit to share similar culinary styles, from taste, texture and presentation. Clarke eagerly mentions the flower lobster that we just spotted on our local market visit the same morning, where he has incorporated the key produce into an English signature: the prawn cocktail. “They’re just stunning, especially when they’re cooked. It’s crazy to fly in langoustines all the way from Europe or Canada when you’ve got these amazing local lobsters right at your doorstep,” says Clarke.
As far as how different The Albion is from Jaan? It’s considerably casual if you were to compare the two—especially with its expansive à la carte menu that divvies into starters, mains, sharing plates and desserts. But instead of being that rogue sister from the family tree, The Albion is refined yet accessible—brimming with more adventurous prospects; perhaps more leeway for spontaneous ideas inspired by the very city it’s situated in.
Start with a single pancake. Stuffed with crab and citrus, it’s fluffy, delicious and all the more divine when mopped up with its accompanying lemon butter sauce. A dish you might want to save on the side just in case you call for more sourdough. For more of a heady, robust take on fresh seafood, tuck into Hokkaido scallops, that join barbecued baby leeks and salted lemon in a smoky bacon sauce. “The philosophy is the same [as with Jaan]. It’s got to be the best ingredients, best locations, and served in a simple style. A simpler version of the same flavours, same expression and the same deliciousness,” explains Westaway.
And good produce you can definitely count on here at The Albion. From Fine de Claire oysters and Patagonian toothfish for the restaurant’s Fish and Chips to Tajima tenderloin wagyu paired with a piquant Guinness sauce, the finest ingredients have congregated in English fashion. But strip away its pristine names and what you will experience is hearty, comforting grub—by Westaway’s definition of his local fare. “I’ve been studying it for a long time and British food, traditionally, it’s just comfort food. Things that we eat are what we enjoy to eat. It feels like a warm hug. And what we’re trying to do is to elevate the standard of comfort food here at The Albion.”
Book a stay at Hôtel des Arts Saigon here.
