As far as fashion clout goes, there’s nothing that gets the sartorial crowd going more than the pull of an IYKYK brand. Often enough, these brands can also be found in the region closer to home—as the global zeitgeist continues to recognise the potential for craftsmanship and creativity in Asian communities. It might be why an Indonesian swimwear brand like Isa Boulder—which first gained traction in the summer of 2020—will continue to be the pick of the litter for the most untouchable of It-girls. Or why certain Chinese-owned bag brands have been increasingly spotted on the arms of the sartorial set in the more recent fashion seasons past.
And whilst it may be little known to most, we’re on the cusp of witnessing fashion’s next favourite hotspot come into full bloom: Vietnam. Whilst it may have started from diasporic Vietnamese designers such as Helmut Lang’s Peter Do making an impact in the major capitals, there have been a breadth of other recognisable designer names—from Cong Tri to Fancì Club’s Duy Tran—who have been riding a new wave. The latter, whose zany catalogue of uninhibited, subversive silhouettes have been worn by celebrities and style savants alike, including Blackpink’s Lisa.
The sheer reception to brands like Fancì Club have been enough of a tell: Vietnam’s creative scene stands as home to some of the most expressive fashion brands. Each one bringing its own fresh twist to the landscape; be it exquisite reinterpretations of the traditional costume, feminine details that call to mind every coquettecore lover’s dream, or futuristic silhouettes that inject a sense of the otherworldly.
If you’re now looking to dip your toes into the fashion scene in Vietnam, but are not sure where to start, fret not. Below, peruse Vogue Singapore’s curation of emerging Vietnamese brands altering the vanguard of Southeast Asian’s design scene as we speak.
1 / 8
La Lune
Quách Đắc Thắng has his eye on injecting the otherworldly into his creations. Heavily inspired by the sc-fi genre, La Lune’s aesthetic is very much infused with an unpredictable quality to each of its pieces—like a Medusa 3D set that has the makings of a couture creation. Think soft goth, or romantic dresses with a side of edgy spunk. Doesn’t hurt that Aespa and Blackpink are huge fans too.
Shop La Lune
2 / 8
Aeie Studios
When it comes to Saigon-based brand Aeie Studios, the no-holds-barred concept rings true. Established by Trang Thuy Do, the brand’s initial fame was attributed to its ‘Waifu’ collection: surrounding a reinterpretation of traditional Vietnamese bridalwear. Its latest experiment, ‘Almost Absolute’, instead twirls around deconstructed shapes and fabrics that were made to feel almost undone.
Shop Aeie Studios
3 / 8
Huelley Rose
She’s a hot mess. We’re talking skin-baring looks, from thigh-high slits to barely-there mini skirts. The Huelley Rose girl is a little kooky and self-indulgent—but at least she’s got impeccable style, even if she’s doing the most mundane thing—something like eating a burger, perhaps?
Shop Huelley Rose
4 / 8
Subtle Le Nguyen
Heritage sits at the core for Subtle Le Nguyen’s designers Jang Le and Nhat Viet. Grounded in the ethos of community—and by extension its local cultures—the latest spring/summer 2024 collection also explores connection to its country’s myriad regions. The result? A slew of practical, well-made silhouettes delivered in tactile fabrications and experimental details.
Shop Subtle Le Nguyen
5 / 8
Bupbes
Your librarian-core muse just got a really sexy update. In plenty of sheer silhouettes and Y2K separates that are strewn with ruffles and coquettecore details, Bupbes flirts with the hyper feminine aesthetic throughout its catalogue and is recognised as a K-pop favourite brand with the likes of Rosé, (G)I-DLE and Jessica Jung as seen at their concerts.
Shop Bupbes
6 / 8
Klei Studio
A more minimalist aesthetic is par for the course at Klei Studio, with much of the designs here embodying more chic, classic styles such as easy shirts, oversized blazers or dressy coords. But the devil is in the details—as each wardrobe staple is also reimagined in unexpected ways, like with twisted knots or open hem details.
Shop Klei Studio
7 / 8
C.Dam
Architecture and modern design inform C.Dam’s narrative. Between distressed fabrics and deconstructed shapes, C.Dam takes on a contemporary, alternative angle towards our everyday cloth for the city-dweller—like in a riffed pair of jeans or a modular tank top that can be worn two ways.
Shop C.Dam
8 / 8
Fancì Club
In its name, Fancì Club is one that’s formed its own little community: of individuals who adore fun and play, and don’t take themselves too seriously when dressing up. Cue flirty designs that boundlessly speak to the female eye. The latest spring/summer 2024 collection is anchored by unorthodox shapes, from ruched corsetry to feathery capes and off-kilter skirts—emblematic of Luy Duan’s beginnings in experimenting with upcycled fabrics.
Shop Fancì Club
