For Louis Vuitton’s spring/summer 2027 men’s show, Pharrell Williams channelled his inner Californian surfer girl, debuting a collection inspired by the ocean, and rooted in surf culture. Opening with a prelude starring veteran beach bums Mikey ‘Mr Good Vibes’ February and Julian ‘The Comeback kid’ Wilson, the brand sent wetsuit-inspired fabrics and monogrammed surfboards down the runway, under an eight metre-tall barrel wave.
But surfing isn’t new to the ever-changing carousel of summer trends. Back in the ‘00s, long before we had Tiktok’s coconut girl core, tropical Y2K and surf crush culture dominated the scene. Blending its Polynesian roots with the Californian beach lifestyle, the sepia-toned aesthetic boasted a focus on performance, functionality and craft, while still maintaining the casual, laid-back energy that has come to be synonymous with surfers today. O’Neill, founded in Santa Cruz in 1952, is credited with inventing the neoprene wetsuit—staple for technical and competitive gear. Brands such as Stussy, Hurley and Vans, were era-defining, mixing coastal-inspired apparel with skate culture, inevitably becoming mavericks of the industry, and the template for modern streetwear. Hawaiian aloha shirts, Huarache sandals and trucker hats found their way into many a beachside outing, easily swapped and adopted between genders. California’s focus on enjoying a carefree, endless summer may have spiked in popularity in the Y2K era, but it had carved out its space long before that.
On the other side of the world, the folks Down Under took on a vastly different approach. Where a SoCal teen might have been having a totally tubular time, the Aussies were paddling out to the surf for the love of the game, chasing wild breaks and exploring about 35,000 kilometres of coastline. The world’s mecca for rugged swells and legendary point breaks, Australia has always been the frontier for surfers on the hunt for adventure.
@shesunderrated let’s break down the history of the OG diva surf brand, roxy 🌊💞 created in 1990 by the founders of quiksilver, roxy was the first surf brand dedicated entirely to women. after noticing more and more women were buying quiksilver products despite the poor fit, it became clear there was an entire community of surfers who had been overlooked. by designing technical swimwear, women’s boardshorts, and wetsuits specifically for female bodies—and working directly alongside athletes like lisa andersen—roxy didn’t just change surfwear. it changed who was being designed for. over the years, the brand grew into a global lifestyle phenomenon, introducing so many of us to women’s surfing we’ll be celebrating that legacy at our blue crush screening on july 25 with vintage ROXY from @rummagestretch available to shop before the movie. 🌊🎬 tickets are linked in my bio! #roxy #surfergirl #2000sfashion #2000snostalgia ♬ Laser Chase – Junkyard Whisper
Such intensity could only mean one thing—practical clothing that was built to last. Graphic tees had to be expressive, but they also had to survive salty water and prickly sand. Shorts had to be comfortable enough on a sunny day, but also protect wet legs from an ocean breeze. Soon enough, Aussie brands became pioneers in the surfing industry: Gold Coast gave us Billabong, and Torquay birthed Quiksilver and Rip Curl. But apparel built for durability and movement didn’t mean that it would have to be ugly—launched in the 1970s, the ‘Big 3’ introduced psychedelic prints, neon colours and faded corduroy. These brands quickly found their place in everyday wardrobes, even if they weren’t being worn to catch a swell. Ubiquitous far beyond the shoreline, Australian surf wear became a symbol of authenticity, freedom and individuality, and so its resurgence today comes as no surprise.
Luxury fashion has also continuously drawn on surf culture for summer collections; Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton simply joins a long line. The high-fashion world has always idealised the effortless and the cool—there’s nothing more chic than throwing a look together, that magically just works out. Who else to do this better, than a bronzed surfer girl, hair thrown carelessly into a ponytail, clad in high-cut Roxy board shorts and her boyfriend’s oversized tee? As she waxes her surfboard and skates down to the beach, she is nonchalance personified. Her lifestyle might not be for sale, but the clothes that emulate it are.
In 2020, Gucci starred Italian surfer Leonardo Fioravanti in ‘Gucci Surf’, a game where players could clean up the ocean to unlock exclusive merchandise. In 2018, Louis Vuitton, under Kim Jones, debuted surf-inspired motifs and materials for their spring/summer mens collection. From Prada to Burberry to Hermes, luxury houses have continued the nexus of high fashion with breezy coastal, generating appeal with younger demographics and nostalgia for older ones.
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From high-fashion houses to local, home-grown beach shacks, brands today have adopted baggy, relaxed silhouettes, retro graphics, and bright colours, creating unisex pieces built for maximum comfort and utility. The surfer girl’s closet is sun-kissed and salt-faded year-round, so too really get your surf’s up, throw an oversized tee over your printed bikini, and pair with some weathered denim shorts. Slather on some sunscreen and slip into your Havaianas before heading down to shred some gnarly waves. The last step, naturally, is to live in the clothes that you buy—and let the sun, salt, and sand do the heavy-lifting.
Scroll down to see Vogue‘s surf-inspired edit. Cowabunga!
