Tonight, Demna made his debut at Gucci. Theatricality of this kind is not surprising from the artistic director and for his first show, he chose to subvert the runway entirely, giving audiences an elusive run for their money. As we wound our way through the maze, it became clear that the spectacle risked overshadowing what we truly came to see: the clothes.
A teaser released the day before announced that the La Famiglia collection would be available exclusively in ten Gucci stores. The 37-look preview revealed recognisable signatures: a new take on house stripes, feathered coats and capes, leather jackets worn against bare skin and legs, and a healthy dose of noughties-branded sexiness. With the GG buckle and monogram on display, Gucci seemed intent on rediscovering its noughties-clad allure—a self-proclaimed nod to Tom Ford—while also debuting a new Gucci trunk. Guests stepped into a theatre drenched in red, shoulder to shoulder with stars like BTS’ Jin, Gwyneth Paltrow, Alia Bhatt and Serena Williams.
On screen, Hollywood royalty of equal measure—Demi Moore, Edward Norton, Elliot Page and Keke Palmer—appeared in a puzzlingly abstract yet glamorous film titled The Tiger. The story cast Moore as a troubled Gucci heiress on the verge of falling apart, imagined and written by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn.
The clothes themselves emerged along an unconventional runway: the red carpet leading into the theatre, where models including Alex Consani and Kit Butler stood neatly in line. On screen, they reappeared in cinematic form: Palmer in sheer maxi dresses, Norton in a scarlet suit, Consani enveloped in pluming furs, and Moore draped in a 1960s Flora Gucci print, embodying a vision both nostalgic and decadent. The experience was immersive and different, a universe of its own to get lost in.
Yet what it did not quite deliver was Gucci stripped back to its essence, in the simplicity of cut and design. It touched on Demna’s penchant for archetypes but felt uncertain in its direction. And while escapism might be welcome now, what Gucci might mean—or look like—to someone who wants it in their wardrobe is not yet clear. As for how that might take shape? We look forward to finding out in seasons to come.
1 / 10
Julianne Nicholson and Heather Lawless
2 / 10
Demi Moore
3 / 10
Ed Harris
4 / 10
Edward Norton
5 / 10
Alex Consani
6 / 10
Elliot Page
7 / 10
Keke Palmer
8 / 10
Alia Shawkat
9 / 10
Ronny Chieng
10 / 10
