The jewel style that stood out on the red carpets and runways this year is the torque necklace. A stiff neck ring, open or closed, with or without a drop gemstone element, it has become a feature of many a fabulous look. What the torque style brings to a look, primarily, is a touch of elegant architecture that contrasts beautifully against draped silhouettes.
New York designer Joseph Altuzarra’s autumn collection this year leans into the leading sensibility of the zeitgeist: elevated wardrobe staples, lean on gimmicks and big on elegance. Altuzarra paired some of his loveliest, most feminine dress styles—embroidered organza, flowy satin, layered and tiered sheer chiffon, jersey knits that hug the body—with bold, voluminous torque necklaces. The pairing is simple and effective: add a touch of sculptural interest to soft shapes.
The torque has its roots in ancient cultures. The stiff neck ring used to be worn as a symbol of status and rank. It may have evolved past that purpose today, but that’s not to say its connotations of power and assurance—built into the simultaneous boldness and restraint of the style—don’t still simmer.
On the award season red carpets this year, the torque necklace was a shift away from the large, drooping, oversized necklaces usually worn by celebrities as spectacles of what their jeweller sponsors are capable of. It’s a welcome change: the chic way to wear jewels these days is with discernment and understatement. Brick-like gobstopper gemstones feel almost gauche.
See, for instance, Elle Fanning’s double panther Cartier at the Golden Globes. It subtly but clearly emphasised her old-Hollywood-with-a-purr leopard print Balmain gown—a thoughtful and stylish way to pair an outfit with jewels. Consider, too, the value of age-appropriateness and restraint. A-list starlets like Mikey Madison and Jenna Ortega, 26 and 23 this year respectively, looked their best on this season’s circuit with jewels that, while glamorous, dressed and highlighted their youth. Madison wore a Tiffany T torque to the Academy Museum Gala, deceptively simple but in fact fully paved with baguette and round diamonds. Ortega, at the Vanity Fair Oscar party, had on a Pomellato Together necklace, half-paved with diamonds and with a gold button at its centre. Chic, discerning restraint.
In its evolution, though, the torque necklace can also be a style of lavish extravagance. Boucheron updated its Quatre collection this year with a new Tube line, introducing a range of torque styles. Its signature four-band ring is transformed into a graphic detail on bands of gold, and features on thick and thin versions of a closed torque, a double motif open torque, and even a full diamond-set high jewellery version that’s as thick as a child’s wrist.
The style has also captivated the London-based jeweller Jessica McCormack, of Zendaya’s engagement ring fame. McCormack’s designs are beloved by Zoë Kravitz, and she has turned her sensuous torque styles into fabulous avenues for remarkable diamonds. In her Rush Hour ‘Til Late design, McCormack sets a diamond on a Georgian-style cut-down collet so it looks as though the gemstone is miraculously floating and nesting on a curve of gold. Those with classic tastes will appreciate McCormack’s ingenious twist on simplicity: a diamond, set East-West, hanging simply from a hoop of gold on the neck.
Below, Vogue’s edit of the best torque necklace styles.
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Pomellato Together necklace in rose gold with diamonds, $21,400
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Alexis Bittar necklace in 14K gold-plated brass with removable lucite crystal pendant, $386
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Tiffany & Co. Tiffany Knot necklace in yellow gold with diamonds, $11,300
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Bottega Veneta Sardine necklace in 18K gold-finish sterling silver, $2,790
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Boucheron Quatre Classique necklace in yellow, white and rose gold with diamonds and brown PVD, $22,250
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Gucci Half Horsebit necklace in gold-tone brass, $2,250
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Completedworks Really Really Genreless necklace in silver-plated recycled brass, $999
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Dior My Dior necklace in yellow gold with diamonds, price on request
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Jessica McCormack Rush Hour 'Til Late necklace in white and yellow gold, $58,655
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Laura Vann Sacha torque necklace in 18K gold-plated sterling silver with white topaz, $553
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