The whirlwind of this season, also known as fall/winter 2022, came and went in what seemed to be fashion’s most successful comeback to the runways yet—given today’s pandemic era. Yet not without its challenges and moral dilemmas peppered throughout the season; in light of the raging war in Ukraine, which was brought about by Putin’s invasion of the country. Designers who had shows penned in grappled with the meaning of fashion, in a time where tragedy was unfolding in the background.
Reactions and interpretations varied as the season went on—from Giorgio Armani’s silent show in respect of the victims from Ukraine to Demna’s riveting presentation at Balenciaga, where he sent models to walk through a makeshift blizzard. His final two looks delivered his stance loud and clear: with head-to-toe ensembles in yellow and blue—the colours of the Ukrainian flag.
It’s safe to say, this season was certainly like no other; with a handful of designers serving up resistance and political messaging via their presentations. Well, just as relentless were some of the trends seen this fall/winter. Designers like Peter Do and Alessandro Michele veered into the basics of immaculate tailoring while micro-minis solidified their place in the case of Miu Miu, also giving rise to ‘00s fashion, amplified with sheer leggings and punk-inspired numbers that resurfaced at Dolce&Gabbana. Not forgetting, the power invested in corset tops—undoubtedly this season’s armour of choice.
From New York to Paris, Vogue Singapore presents the culmination of fall/winter 2022 trends. Revisit the best of this season below.
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Micro-minis
The cult-favourite Miu Miu micro-mini was elevated this season with more pleats and colourways; a country club staple injected with hints of Y2K playfulness. Coperni went for classic denim in terms of material, but took a more experimental approach when it came to button detailing and form. Contrastingly, Courrèges kept it simple in terms of design with a sleek white mini—that, upon closer examination, harbours meticulous detailing in the form of side-slits and curved pockets.
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As seen at Courrèges.
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As seen at Coperni.
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Tweed skirt suits
Tweed skirt suits were a mainstay across the runways this season. From being the fabric at heart of Chanel to Bora Aksu and Halpern’s conservative iterations, the material proved its versatility this fall. Especially shown through London-based designer Yuhan Wang, who experimented with raw-edges and asymmetrical hemlines to give tweed a youthful revamp.
As seen at Chanel.
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As seen at Yuhan Wang.
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As seen at Mithridate.
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Corset tops and dresses
Corsets have not seen a dip in popularity since the Regencycore craze inspired by Netflix series Bridgerton. Making appearances across the runways of multiple brands, the garment found itself on models at Fendi as well as Dior. At Versace, creative director Donatella Versace featured corsets in well over half of the collection, with Bella Hadid walking the runway in a red minidress and matching latex leggings.
As seen at Versace.
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As seen at Fendi.
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As seen at Dior.
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Maximalist prints
One thing the streetstyle set has nailed as of late? Loud patterns to chase away the blues. Albeit unorthodox, Alexander McQueen channelled the humble beginnings of a mushroom while Carolina Herrera and Tory Burch put a demure spin on the trend with muted shades and layering.
As seen at Tory Burch.
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As seen at Alexander McQueen.
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As seen at Carolina Herrera.
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Oversized tailoring
This season, LaQuan Smith and Peter Do proved that traditional workwear can indeed be chic with just the right amount of tailoring. Taking style cues from classic menswear, designers opted for artfully oversized blazers and trousers, favouring a monochromatic colour scheme over highly contrasting separates.
As seen at Burberry.
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As seen at Gucci.
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As seen at Peter Do.
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Opera gloves
Amidst simplicity was an abundance of dramatic gloves courtesy of Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Ermanno Scervino and more. At Emilia Wickstead, a sophisticated ‘60s-inspired silhouette radiated alongside matching plaid gloves while Ermanno Scervino went with a sheer white pair to offset an intricately embroidered midi dress. Meanwhile, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini contrasted black leather gloves and a white blouse with girlish ruffled sleeves.
As seen at Emilia Wickstead.
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As seen at Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini.
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As seen at Ermanno Scervino.
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Monochromatic punk
Fall/winter 2022’s punk-inspired trend called for all-black ensembles. Dolce&Gabbana added a touch of glamorous flair through square necklines and high-waisted bottoms to emphasise the waist. Gucci, on the other hand, partook in dramatic fashion—of puffed up sleeves and a studded red belt.
As seen at Dolce&Gabbana.
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As seen at Gucci.
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As seen at Givenchy.
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Sheer detailing and paneling
Hints of skin were enticingly revealed at Hermès, where swathes of fabric and leather were strategically placed over a sheer bodice that radiated with understated sex appeal. Valentino brought on the pink—delicately in see-through ruffles cascading down the entire frame. Dior, on the other hand, went with full-body lace suits that were donned under elaborate frocks that brings to mind a functional yet fashionable form.
As seen at Hermès.
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As seen at Valentino.
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As seen at Dior.
