With the main fashion cycle now completed in the big four capitals—from New York and London to Milan and most recently, Paris—most of the industry’s greatest players have unmistakably taken their turn on the runway. It seems only natural then that attention has shifted to the ebullient scene halfway across the globe: Tokyo, where cult brands such as Chitose Abe’s Sacai, Undercover and Yohji Yamamoto have cemented their roots. Now, Tokyo Fashion Week returns with its own allure, as a total of 58 brands, from local mainstays to city newcomers, give breath to their fall/winter 2023 collections.
The first few days witnessed the enigmatic vision of Japanese designer Chika Kisada, whose designs have always drawn from the feminine strength of ballet. Yet for this season, her garments were inflected with a shift in mindset after spending her days with ballet dancer Haruo Niyama. Elsewhere, the vision of a designer influenced by his own culture shone through on Kohichi Watanabe’s runway for Rainmaker—which saw the brand taking a contemporary approach to the styling of the storied kimono.
And while the various runway shows saw designers deal with their own creative expressions, it was undeniably out on the streets where the city’s eclectic style sparkled. Showgoers and fashion enthusiasts peppered the pavements of Tokyo in their most effervescent ensembles, with a number of them pulling a team effort for their statement arrivals as they showed up in matching sets or colour-coordinated outfits. There were also some eye-catching accessories that were spotted, from hats and beanies to larger totes prioritised for function and the odd infusion of leg warmers primed for the blistering cold. The city’s experimental approach to fashion was for all to see as many dialled in with their own kitsch aesthetic—from distressed layers to modern renditions of Japan’s traditional kimono and a vibrant cluster of patterned fabrics.
As the fall/winter 2023 shows unveil themselves in the capital of Japan, Kira from TokyoFashion highlights the best of Tokyo Fashion Week street style spotted so far.
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