Taking the streets of Tokyo a week before cherry blossoms are set to flower, the fall/winter 2024 Rakuten Fashion Week lives up to its long-standing reputation as the most eclectic of fashion weeks, whilst challenging the notion that the season has ended with fashion month in the ‘Big Four’ capitals. Last Sunday, Masu’s Shinpei Goto opened Tokyo Fashion Week in a makeshift cinema with a screening of his Paris debut at the men’s shows last January for a miscellaneous audience of Tokyo’s fashion industry. 500 members of his ever-expanding fanbase known as ‘Masu Boys’ took their place alongside mannequins that adorned his latest collection, rendering the event’s mise en scène with a nod to its year-round theme of ‘Open, Fashion Week’.
Masu’s campy statement pieces of silver chains ornamenting leather and stone angels inked onto knits are marked by a subtle softness that keeps the collection down to earth. As far as debuts at Tokyo Fashion Week go, Japanese workwear label Hidesign interweaves industrial wear and couture to create a futuristic, functional collection that spans across two completely different worlds. And on a more tangible note, emblems of feathery freedom are seen via Tanaka’s latest season of its trademark denim and paisley prints in a particularly wearable exercise of ‘ametora’—a trend born from the assimilation of traditional Americana into Japanese men’s street style in the ’80s.
Both on and off the runway, binaries are blurred through dauntless experimentations of material and gender, as showgoers and fashion enthusiasts dress pastel with punk influences and grace leather with pearls, tulle, and safety pins in the spirit of the avant-garde.
Below, peruse the best street style looks from the Tokyo Fashion Week fall/winter 2024 shows so far, as lensed by Momo Angela.
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