Hair wash day arrives, but—under the constraints of time—you pull your locks back into a slicked bun instead. It’s polished, looks put together and feels infinitely easier than heat styling. Besides, your favourite celebrity wears it to premieres, outings and even down the aisle. And if it is good enough for them, it is surely good enough for the rest of us.
View this post on Instagram
Yet beneath the lacquered look sits a growing concern around strain and long-term scalp health. Of course, while the occasional slick-back is unlikely to pose an issue, prolonged wear can become a cause for concern. To truly uncover what is actually happening beneath the surface, we turn to Leonica Kei, principal trichologist and founder of Leonica K Trichology, to shed light on the long-term effects of chronic slick-back styling on the scalp.
What repeated tension does to the scalp
According to the aforementioned expert, “constant pulling or tension on the hair follicle damages the dermal papilla, which is the source of new cells in the hair follicle responsible for generating hair growth.” Kei further explains the severity of damage to the hair follicle, noting that inflammation can manifest in the form of follicular papules (small raised bumps) and pustules wherever tension is present.
With that being said, if your slick-back rotation exists more in the realm of occasional convenience than habitual wear, it is worth noting that slick-back-related scalp damage does not exactly emerge overnight. “When hair is kept under continuous tension, follicles don’t get the chance to recover, which gradually weakens them and leads to thinning or breakage over time,” warns Kei. “Risk factors include tension from tight buns, gels, nighttime tight hair wrapping, and the combined use of chemical relaxers with pulled-back styles.”
The strain of the slick-back
Several styling habits associated with the slick-back can actually intensify the damage done, especially when compounded. According to Kei, manoeuvring the hair while it is wet makes it far more susceptible to breakage, considering its fragile state. Elastic hair ties may also concentrate tension onto specific points of the scalp, while aggressive brushing, prolonged wear and repeated gel application can add on to the stress around the follicles. Kei also notes how the risk intensifies when these tightly pulled styles are combined with chemical treatments such as bleach and relaxers, leaving the hair significantly more vulnerable to damage.
@lindseyteaches I need my girls to drop their hair growth routines immediately please and thanks!
And while afro-textured hair exhibits greater vulnerability to breakage as a result of structural differences within the follicle itself, Kei mentions that traction alopecia is by no means exclusive to one hair type or ethnicity. Instead, she states that recent studies point towards hair care practices as the main defining factor. And since the effects of repeated tension emerge gradually, it is often easy to overlook the earliest warning signs.
Where thinning actually begins
“Thinning and hair loss are commonly located at the periphery of the scalp, with accentuation in the frontal and temporal regions,” says Kei. “The bitemporal area of the scalp is affected most commonly. A characteristic clinical sign is the ‘fringe sign’ — a band of fine wispy hairs is retained at the frontal rim of the hairline while hair loss occurs just behind it.”
As mentioned previously, the effects of traction rarely appear dramatic at first, meaning that these signs are either overlooked or initially dismissed. “The earliest clinical sign of traction on the scalp is perifollicular erythema (redness around the follicles), which may progress to follicular papules and pustules,” notes Kei. Beyond clinical markers, Kei also mentions that soreness when undoing tight styles or a headache relieved by loosening said styles are also telltale warning signs. “A receding hairline, particularly around the temples, forehead, or nape of the neck,” may also begin surfacing.
The case for moderation
“Early traction alopecia is non-scarring and reversible,” mentions Kei. “Management in early stages focuses on reducing hair tension, avoiding chemical treatments. Scalp treatment and hair care products that could help reduce inflammation and improve hair elasticity would significantly reverse the damage.”
“Initially, follicles enter a stress-induced resting phase. With ongoing tension, inflammation becomes persistent. Over time, the body replaces damaged follicles with fibrous scar tissue — a process known as cicatricial (scarring) alopecia,” Kei continues. She notes that once this stage has been reached, the affected follicles are unable to support hair regrowth. “Late-stage signs of permanent damage include visible bald patches, shiny or smooth areas of the scalp indicating follicle scarring, and thickened scalp tissue due to fibrosis from prolonged inflammation.” Signs of more advanced damage can include visible bald patches, shiny or smooth areas of the scalp and thickened skin.
Fortunately, for the slick-back wearers among us, reducing strain on the scalp and protecting your hairline does not exactly necessitate abandoning the style altogether. Kei recommends rotating styles to give your scalp a break and even switching out tight elastic bands for their fabric-covered or spiral counterparts. Kei also warns against wet hair styling and sleeping in your slick-back. As the adage goes, too much of anything often does more harm than good.
