We’ve spent the last few years obsessing over how to achieve ‘glass hair’—cue the line-up of hair glosses, essences and oils—and somewhere along that quest, we’ve turned our attention to hair health too. With environmental stressors, hormonal changes and high cortisol levels, it seems that everyone has experienced hair loss anxiety or scalp irritation, and are now dead-set on remedying it, stat. The most plausible solution? To return to the roots: the scalp.
In the world of Tiktok, there are many possible approaches. Buy a scalp scrubber or hair guasha. Leave your shampoo on longer for a deeper cleanse. Save the water from soaking your rice to douse your strands in. More recently, scalp serums and ampoules have entered the conversation, boasting exosome technology, PDRN dosages and more. Some even come with in-built brushes for precise and targeted application. Before/after transformations aside, a few questions remain: is scalp care for everyone, and how do we find what’s best for us?
“For a long time, people focused on the hair itself—smoothing it, styling it, repairing visible damage. But hair is the result. The scalp is where hair is formed, and if that environment is unhealthy, the follicle cannot function properly,” advises Leonica Kei, principal trichologist and founder of Leonica K Trichology. “We are seeing more sensitivity, imbalance and thinning at younger ages. Scalp care is no longer a niche step—it is the foundation of healthy hair.”
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As we navigate the various types of treatments available on the market, understanding the terminology is key. Exosomes—the tiny, cellular messengers that carry signals between cells to support repair, regeneration and communication within tissues—create a healthier environment around the hair follicle so it can function more optimally. While exosomes may be present in ingredient lists, Kei notes it’s important to distinguish between in-clinic procedures and cosmetic formulations inspired by this technology. “Topical products can support scalp vitality, but they are not a replacement for medical treatments.”
Scalp serums vs scalp ampoules
Weighing in on the differences between scalp serums and ampoules, Kei clarifies that there is no strict definition that separates the two. “These terms are largely used for positioning within the beauty industry, rather than being governed by formal standards. The name itself does not determine effectiveness,” she explains. Instead, we should be paying attention to the ingredients used, their concentrations, and whether they are suited to our individual scalp needs. “Effective scalp care comes from using the right formulation consistently and precisely because, again, one-size never fits all.”
What’s new in scalp care
Thankfully, a shift is happening everywhere. As the Korean beauty saying goes, if your scalp ages by 1cm, your face sags by 3cm too. The scalp is as much a living skin as your face is, and attention should be paid to inflammation control, microbiome balance, antioxidant protection and the concept of scalp ageing. “The industry is slowly moving away from quick-fix promises and towards long-term scalp wellness. That mindset change is the real advancement,” asserts Kei.
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On curating your own scalp care routine
Rather than searching for quick fixes, Kei advises viewing hair care as a journey. “Start by understanding your scalp condition rather than following trends, and choose products that truly support its needs. Regular cleansing, managing buildup and introducing targeted support early can make a meaningful difference over time.”
Respecting the natural hair cycle is the other crucial part. According to Kei, visible improvement in thinning typically takes about three months, while restoring balance to a sensitive scalp can take around four weeks. Other factors, like lifestyle, stress levels, health conditions and the environment, can also influence your hair. For lasting results, it’s all about patience and a holistic approach.
“Care for the scalp first, then the hair,” Kei concludes. “That foundation is what allows healthy hair to follow.”
