In spite of Storm Eunice, the London fall/winter 2022 presentations showcased the best of up-and-coming British talents such as Connor Ives and Molly Goddard. Designs from each label reached the height of maximalism: Roksanda’s scarf dresses, Yuhan Wang’s distressed tweed separates, and Matty Bovan’s loud layers, which paid tribute to American culture. Who can forget the opening: Irina Shayk strutted down the runway in a repurposed Roksanda Ilincic gown, spruced with a party of layers. Even denim was given a high fashion makeover at Ahluwalia and Regina Pyo with graphic prints and gold hardware.
Oversized silhouettes were ever-present at shows such as Simone Rocha and Central Saint Martins’ graduate show, thanks to unapologetic draping of ruffled layers and swathes of sheer fabric. Rocha made paid meticulous attention to detail—exuding her core spirit of fairytale and whimsy. Tweed was given a refresh by way of plunging necklines, corsets and vibrant hues, and plaid, a quintessential motif for fall, was donned by models on the runways of Emilia Wickstead and Paul Costelloe. In these turbulent times, the city’s most prominent fashion labels made it clear that they were not done with tradition just yet. Instead, popular designs and fabrics were simply reinvigorated for fall.
Below, Vogue spotlights four standout trends at London fall/winter 2022.
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Maximalist draping
The brands presented at London Fashion Week proved that bigger is indeed, better. At Roksanda, the designer emphasised voluminous shapes in her line-up of puffer coats, moon boots and duffle bags. Simone Rocha’s collection, on the other hand, was all froth and whimsy, with meticulous attention to detail materialising in the form of beaded gloves and socks. The graduating batch of Central Saint Martins put a modern spin on colourblocking with translucent layers in clashing colours, while Edward Crutchley presented a goth-inspired rendition of the trend.
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Tweed skirt suits
Tweed skirt suits were a mainstay across the runways this season. Bora Aksu and Halpern presented conservative looks which have proven to be a time-tested match for the material. Gender neutral Chinese luxury brand Mithridate, however, explored cut-offs in place of the usual skirt, as well as a matching corset to cinch in the waist. Meanwhile, London-based designer Yuhan Wang experimented with raw-edges and asymmetrical hemlines to give tweed a youthful revamp.
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Denim co-ords
With the return of Y2K trends and low-rise denim, it’s no surprise that denim has earned its place on Ahluwalia’s runway with boxy, printed separates. The Indian-Nigerian designer spotlighted the low waistline and loose fit with minimal accessories. South Korean designer Regina Pyo’s opening look was one informed by the workwear ensembles of the 1920s, updated with modern touches such as a lime green shoulder bag.
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All over plaid and checks
Plaid and checkered prints were present in all forms at London’s fall/winter 2022 shows. New Zealand-born Emilia Wickstead favoured ‘60s-inspired silhouettes for her fall/winter 2022 collection. This included a sleek, strapless midi dress with hand-painted checkerboard motifs. Meanwhile, Matty Bovan and Paul Costello’s solution to making layers of sweaters, scarves and coats look chic and not overwhelming was simple—a statement belt to tie the style together.
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