It can be argued that a showing by Simone Rocha couldn’t have come at a better time, seeing how Storm Eunice’s arrival forced citizens to hunker down and shelter in place. In times like these, themes of romanticism and ethereality provide some degree of comfort; a form of escapism typically associated with the designer’s acclaimed portfolio. It’s safe to say that the label delivered in this regard—lush, otherworldly confections remained a mainstay of the Simone Rocha fall/winter 2022 collection, where Rocha drew upon and reinterpreted time-honoured favourites from the house’s storied archives. They include her past tribute to Queen Elizabeth I in 2014; a line-up of puff sleeves and embellished flats that were sent down the runway, alongside richly coloured velvet pieces from her fall/winter 2017 range.
What distinguishes the Simone Rocha fall/winter 2022 range, however, is the meticulous attention to detail—and how it all comes together in harmony to exude Rocha’s core spirit of fairytale and whimsy. While silhouettes and materials were familiar, new embroidery techniques were introduced to great effect. This was made apparent with Rocha’s go-to voluminous frocks, which haboured eiderdown quilting that provided visually-intriguing hints of texture. A new woollen embroidery dubbed “Bloodline” was hand stitched onto tulles and organzas, too; a seemingly miniscule detail that nevertheless, drew the eye.
Speaking of detail, it’s clear to see that no aspect of Rocha’s show was spared from her scrupulous eye. Even the shoes complementing her darkly seductive creations had a story of their own; an assortment of “wet-ballerina trainers” and platforms that resemble wet beaks, a homage to the main source of inspiration for this collection: the Irish fairytale, Children of Lir, which centres around a group of adolescents turned into swans by their jealous stepmother. This came through in the ruffled detailing hanging from button-down shirts that look like wings, as well as in the integration of patent leather elements to create the impression of being wet.
It goes to show: just when you think there’s nothing else to be spun from children tales and allegories, Simone Rocha proves you wrong—and continues to enthrall, once more.
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