Loewe SS23
10-word show review: Daring yet wearable pieces, from floral bustiers to fuzzy armours.
Designer: Jonathan Anderson
Location: 18 boulevard Henri IV
The vision: There’s a strong undercurrent of irony that has infiltrated Jonathan Anderson’s work at Loewe since his appointment in 2013. The irony of that, however, is that the most unthinkable of designs—a car dress, for example, or a jacket teeming with fake grass—become wearable. For spring/summer 2023, Anderson looked to the anthurium as a symbol of nature’s rawness in a world swept up with facades. The soundtrack to illustrate this? Yo-Yo Ma’s ‘Cello Suite No. 1 in G Major’ which faded out into complete silence save for the sound of footsteps.
Signature silhouettes: The giant anthurium—or laceleaf, as it is otherwise known as—found itself on a myriad of designs, quickly solidifying itself as the pièce de résistance of the collection. Anderson imagined and positioned it in different ways: a bustier, a bralette and on the crown of strappy shoes. Amidst this homage to nature, however, was his ever-present jab at all things digital. Serving as a visual palette cleanser were pixelated T-shirts and hoodies, decidedly more “wearable” than Anderson’s floral creations, but equally as Loewe.
A style tip for Singapore: Loewe has solidified its place in the closets of the style set in Singapore and this collection is an acute reminder of why. If you’re one for flair without the fuss of tenuous fabrics, opt for the slew of breathable cotton babydoll shirts that come in baby blue, pink and more (Look 9) or the dramatic yet visibly airy bowed dresses (Look 42). As for rainier days, Anderson has officially summoned the return of the cropped canvas jacket so you don’t have to choose between comfort and layering.
Issey Miyake SS23
10-word show review: An homage to Issey Miyake through colour and construction.
Designer: Satoshi Kondo and the Issey Miyake team
Location: Paris Event Centre
The vision: The brand’s first collection since Issey Miyake’s passing in August was a celebratory homage left in the hands of Satoshi Kondo and the rest of the Issey Miyake team. Hosted in a bare set with all but two large white lights extending to the sky and a pianist, the collection, titled A Form That Breathes, kept true to the brand’s expert construction and craftsmanship.
The mood: The label continues to epitomise the sentiment of perfecting what is integral to both its values and its fanbase. First came designs that were made out of singular pieces of fabric, swathed in variations of colour, from a bright lime green to a gentle peach. A platter of spiked silhouettes—from blunter versions on the sleeves of tops to tentacle-like nodules on the base of dresses—proved sharp and striking. The line-up was softened by a flurry of dancers who appeared on stage in various shades of neutrals, their pleated dresses flouncing with movement.
What to shop from the collection: To say that pieces from this collection are collector-worthy—both for sentiment and savoir faire—is an understatement. While most designs prove extremely wearable, we are partial to the bright blue jumpsuit for an inimitable statement piece (Look 32) or a delicate midi dress with a mesh panel (Look 50) to wear no matter the occasion.
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Look 3, Loewe SS23
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Look 9, Loewe SS23
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Look 14, Loewe SS23
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Look 18, Loewe SS23
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Look 28, Loewe SS23
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Look 32, Loewe SS23
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Look 34, Loewe SS23
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Look 35, Loewe SS23
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Look 42, Loewe SS23
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Look 49, Loewe SS23
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Look 52, Loewe SS23
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Look 3, Issey Miyake SS23
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Look 8, Issey Miyake SS23
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Look 28, Issey Miyake SS23
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Look 32, Issey Miyake SS23
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Look 33, Issey Miyake SS23
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Look 42, Issey Miyake SS23
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Look 43, Issey Miyake SS23
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Look 50, Issey Miyake SS23
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