Show review in a sentence: A collection on the pulse, firmly rooted in the iconography and history of Hermès, while honouring its present and future.
Designer: Nadège Vanhee
Location: Shanghai, China
The vision: Today in Shanghai, at the North Bund Bay, Hermès presented what, to me, felt like one of Nadège Vanhee’s edgiest collections yet. Dubbed Au Galop!, what stood out wasn’t just the collection itself, but the way each piece was styled. There was a clear sense of direction, one that felt in step with Shanghai’s energy and, more than that, its taste.
The vibe: Showgoers, as vibrant as the sparkling Shanghai skyline itself, filtered into a characteristically hued set. It’s no surprise that fans of the maison are truly fans—and what’s so beautiful about the affinity between them is the ever-present hint of personalisation in the relationship. Constances came perched in different ways, Kellys playfully styled with scarves, trinkets and vintage keychains, and Birkins in a myriad of hues, all bearing the distinct touch of their owners. The second chapter of the fall/winter 2025 collection was shown against an orange-lit waterfront, with panels revealing Lujiazui’s skyline and the Huangpu River. Hermès’ glittering Jumping boots opened the show, hinting at an immediate edge applied to some of the house’s most recognisable staples. Scarves layered over leather hats, black-and-red gloves, and structured outerwear followed. While the collection stayed true to Hermès’ roots, it felt as though Vanhee was inviting us to reimagine pieces we’ve known for decades, nudging them into new territory.
What to shop from this collection: The braid, a long-standing Hermès code, anchored the collection. Symbolising connection and continuity, it appeared in equestrian plaits and brought fresh energy to the Dressage Tressage silk carré. Throughout, there were strong hints at modularity—items designed to adapt, mix, and layer—reflected in jackets, equestrian blankets, poncho sweaters, and coats. Scarves sat atop baseball caps, and sweaters were slung across hips. Hermès’ brand-new in-house headphones—yes, their own—also served as a striking accessory. And of course, who could forget the bags on the runway itself? This time, they were styled in a clever peekaboo way, tucked under jackets and outerwear. The deliciously compact Hermès Della Cavalleria bag was perched on hips in brilliant blues and browns; Mini Kellys were kept close to the chest under layers—some embellished, others clean and sleek; and the adorable Jypsière bag followed suit: compact and eye-catching all the same. I walked away wanting to add multiple things to cart—the sumptuous leather caps and the scarves perched atop, for one, followed by a beautifully cropped structured jacket with lime green panels underneath. What truly caught my eye, however, was the modular genius of Look 1, a dark chocolate leather coat with all the trappings of taking you throughout the four seasons and more.
1 / 10
Look 1
2 / 10
Look 2
3 / 10
Look 14
4 / 10
Look 17
5 / 10
Look 27
6 / 10
Look 37
7 / 10
Look 41
8 / 10
Look 42
9 / 10
Look 47
10 / 10
