Show: Hermès fall/winter 2025
Designer: Nadège Vanhée
Location: La Garde républicaine
The vibe: Hosted at La Garde républicaine, Hermès’ fall/winter 2025 show saw attendees walking across rich brown soil, with winding seats setting the scene. For this collection, Nadège Vanhée drew inspiration from the Dandy, a theme that has also appeared at Alexander McQueen and been hinted at by Valentino this season. The essence of the lineup? Sexiness, demonstrated in countless ways. Lending to this heightened allure was one of the biggest surprises—seeing Model of the Year, Alex Consani, take the runway with a Birkin in hand, a nod to the ongoing story that she has always wanted (and manifested!) one of her own.
The vision: In the decade that Vanhée has helmed the design direction of the house, she has largely avoided leaning into the more carnal side of the brand. However, this collection fully embraced it, spotlighting glossy leathers, tassels on tops, shorts, skirts, and trousers, loops that cinched the chest and waist, and plenty of cords, as if to bind and liberate simultaneously. A wildcard appeared in the form of a daring marble print, complete with zips running across the chest and back. Upon closer inspection, it was clear that Vanhée had mastered the art of guiding the eye, with designs that are subtly yet powerfully on-brand for Hermès.
What to shop from the collection: Naturally, eyes are likely to be peeled for the latest bag. This collection introduced a petite pouch of sorts, firm and rigid, with just about enough room for a small iPhone—but with all the delectable leather trimmings. My personal favourite pieces from the collection were the coats that combined leather and denim, perched neatly on the shoulders of models before draping down, as well as the beautifully luscious panelled green dresses accented with browns. Hermès remains intricately classic season after season, while always offering something nuanced and unexpected to look forward to.
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