With a long-standing history that spans seven decades, the emblematic design of the Gucci Horsebit adorns many of the brand’s most coveted footwear and accessories today. Its trademark double ring and bar design boasts an equestrian influence that resonates with many of its legacy clients, melding the house’s savoir-faire with its unparalleled craftsmanship.
One of the oldest designs that has stood the test of time is undoubtedly the Gucci Horsebit 1953 loafer, a classic slip-on shoe that is now synonymous with the acclaimed brand. With an air of elegance and timelessness, the 1953 loafer boasts sophistication and comfort for the wearer. Constructed from supple Italian calfskin, it features a subtle heel and pointed toe. The loafer is offered in black and white, with a choice for polished silver or goldtoned hardware detailing.
The iconic silhouette was first introduced in the 1950s after Aldo Gucci—son of founder Guccio Gucci—took a trip to New York, where he noticed a rising popularity in slip-on shoes worn by working American men. With an already-distinguished symbol for the brand in place, Gucci replaced the usual diamond-shaped cut-out for the penny loafer with the distinctive metal horsebit design. Alongside the interlocked Gs monogram and recognisable red and green ribbon detailing, the horsebit quickly solidified itself as one of the house’s signatures.
A quick glance into the archives of the house reveals a treasure trove of designs that feature the Horsebit, from backless striped loafers in green, red and gold to buckled platform pumps that elevated the wearer’s foot. The classic jet black elevated the loafer’s status from a casual shoe to footwear that could be worn in corporate settings, while suede leather renditions in mahogany and chestnut remained popular for everyday use.
To date, the loafer has been deeply favoured by celebrities both old and new. Actors, musicians and even artists from all around the world have been photographed on the streets donning a pair of 1953s. Several notable names include president George HW Bush, actress-singer Jane pop icon Madonna, dancer Fred Astaire and actress-filmmaker Jodie Foster amongst many others. They have also been featured on the silver screen gracing the feet of Leonardo DiCaprio in The Wolf of Wall Street, Dustin Hoffman in Kramer Vs Kramer, Brad Pitt in Fight Club, and Matt Damon in The Talented Mr Ripley.
Apart from the 1953 loafer, the distinctive Horsebit design is present in a variety of footwear options such as mules, slingbacks and even sandals. On the accessories front, the ever-popular 1955 Horsebit bag is available in an array of shades and sizes, along with an assortment of silk scarves that have the design boldly printed across it.
To celebrate the Horsebit’s 70th anniversary, the house has released a campaign that stars its highly acclaimed brand ambassadors Paul Mescal and Xiao Zhan. Captured by photographers Heji Shin and Feng Li respectively, both of them don the season’s latest offerings by newly-appointed creative director Sabato De Sarno, which features classic designs reminiscent of Gucci by Tom Ford. This campaign also marks Mescal’s official debut as the house’s latest ambassador, who embodies the redefined house codes with an air of nostalgia.
The styling is pared back and minimal, demonstrating how the loafers add a contemporary simplicity to any outfit that goes beyond age or gender. Cropped white T-shirts, fitted ankle-length suit trousers and beige trench coats rounded out the looks, each portrait exuding a certain softness and edge.
As the 1953 loafer continuously redefines the idea of staple footwear, each creative director spurs on the house’s equestrianinspired legacy and narrative. With De Sarno ushering in a new era, it is clear that the iconic house of Gucci will continue to transcend generations.
The December ‘Carouse’ issue of Vogue Singapore is available for sale online and in-store from 14 December 2023.
