Ferragamo FW23
10-word show review: A high-octane approach through immaculate tailoring and purposeful designs.
Designer: Maximilian Davis
Location: Viale Eginardo 2
The vision: There is a sense of clarity and precision today at Ferragamo as Maximilian Davis takes the Italian house to extreme heights. And speaking of heights, models made their way down a circular runway in the most dangerous of stilettos—a skinny stem protruding from the arches of the heel, balancing a long and linear silhouette. Jackets were docked off at the hips and paired with a series of barely-there shorts. Davis remains singular in his focus as those delectable drape dresses from last season now come washed in a metallic disco crimson while tracksuits and trenches were spliced open by zippers to show off that ferocious signature Lamborghini red, now firmly associated with the house.
The vibe: Guests were ushered into the convention center that felt almost like an automobile detailing floor illuminated by hazy blue lights. The show then opened to a cinematic start as the cobalt-washed interior was suddenly transmogrified into an eye-blinding white—as if to put out each and every garment for thorough scrutiny.
Signature style: It’s great to see how within a season, Davis had gone from testing the grounds to straight-up knowing the kind of audience he would like to capture. The Ferragamo woman is strong, complex and captivating, which pretty much sums up his second collection. Shapes are built with a singular message of a shorter torso armed with miles of legs (look 12). Dresses come in a form of a sporty-con slip (look 16) that felt like it would sit right with the younger customers while his drape dresses (look 49) have the potential to reacquaint with his current clientele given the allure and the charm. It’s a collection that possesses the range and the propensity to be able to speak to a variety of women, which again proves how remarkable Davis is as a young designer.
What to shop from the collection: It has to be the stilettos that perhaps suggest living life on the edge (look 2) whereas the grey single-breasted blazer lobbed off at the hip feels modern and somewhat contemporary. And dare I say those scrumptious drape dresses that kickstarted Davis’s first season (and also on the cover of my first issue as editor-in-chief come March) are clearly looking to be a must-have signature of the house (look 49). And because Ferragamo essentially started out as an accessory house back in the hay days, Davis made sure bags—in this case, top handled ones with ornate gold hardware (look 51) to oversize underarm clutches—had its place at the show (look 28).

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Look 2, Ferragamo FW23

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Look 14, Ferragamo FW23

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Look 16, Ferragamo FW23

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Look 26, Ferragamo FW23

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Look 28, Ferragamo FW23

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Look 33, Ferragamo FW23

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Look 37, Ferragamo FW23

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Look 49, Ferragamo FW23

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Look 51, Ferragamo FW23

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Look 56, Ferragamo FW23

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Look 61, Ferragamo FW23

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