Diesel FW23
10-word show review: A sexual exploration as seen on a piece of garment.
Designer: Glenn Martens
Location: Superstudio Maxi Via Moncucco
The vision: Going to a Diesel show is akin to attending the hottest rave party in town and this season, sex positivity claimed centre stage as 200,000 Durex condom boxes piled mountain high set the stage. The shaved down devorè approach continued this season as thongs and G-strings were seen through the back of low-slung jeans and shimmery slips, while silk dresses that hung from chains teased the wildest of imaginations. The real highlight of the show came last: where close-up pop prints of teeth and lips were plastered all over motor jackets, pencil skirts and chunky belts, bringing the whole idea of sexual tension to a fiery high.
The vibe: The power of individual freedom is celebrated by a melange of thumping beats and orgasmic howls as models spiralled down a circular catwalk painted in a saucy red anchored by a huge pile of condom boxes.
Signature style: Silhouettes varied from long and slinky to bulky and almost threatening but what was clever was the exploration of denim and how that singular POV saw the birth of the devoré effect: where a chemical process is applied onto velvet to make everything look like they were ravaged (Look 4) in a really beautiful way (Look 10). Meanwhile, on t-shirts, the Diesel logo is half replaced by ‘Shadeerah Regular’, a font used in the Durex insignia (Look 7). The idea of the barely-there Y2K slip dress took on a delicate approach as silk was draped strategically across the body and held in place by yards of silver chains (Look 30), while the print of the moment has to be the close-up images of smiling lips and teeth beamed across jackets, skirts and belts (Look 59).
What to shop from the collection: Most definitely the devoré slip dress (Look 12) in a full crystal ensemble and not to mention yet another must-have: denim that casually showed off those legs (Look 18). A wearable alternative to the silk dresses would have to be a long maxi held in place by the Diesel Logo (Look 40) and finally, if the pop prints prove to be too much of a sensory overload, opt for the tank (Look 63) as that would sit easily in any wardrobe when paired alongside micro miniskirts and cargo pants.
Fendi FW23
10-word show review: A return to simplicity befitting of the modern-day woman.
Designer: Kim Jones
Location: Via Andrea Solari
The vision: As the haunting voice of Julee Cruise filled the room, models walked through a fascinating light tunnel to reveal one of the most handsome offerings from Fendi this season. Tailoring was key under the clever hands of Kim Jones and with that came a suggestive crotch fastener that lent a detail to masculine boy pants paired with lean long coats and blazers. A play on contrast came in the form of lace slip dresses built into oxford shirts and colour-blocked knit dresses pulled close with a row of snap buttons, only to reveal a bare leg. If anything, there was a stirring sense of familiarity in today’s show especially when hinged pleated skirts were worn over pants just as it was two seasons back.
The vibe: The lyrics “Don’t let yourself be hurt this time” from ‘Falling’ stirred a tingling sensation as the opening soundtrack from Julee Cruise brought back the surreal memories of the ’90s hit American TV drama, Twin Peaks, and it was accompanied by an impressive light show.
Signature style: It was an unconventional narrative at today’s Fendi show as classic menswear tailoring gave way to a cheeky juxtaposition of cut-out vests (Look 6) and pleated kilts layered over pants (Look 11). Graphic knits in contrasting colours lengthened the torso while exposing a leg in the most perfunctory of manners (Look 44) whereas a lace camisole is cleverly worked into an oxford shirt (Look 14). A personal favourite has to be the reinterpretation of the good old cardigan that is twisted at the collar into a cape (Look 18).
What to shop from the collection: It has got to be the grey bias-cut pants that comes with an attached train (Look 7) and the ultra-chic shirt dress with the press-on lace camisole that takes one out of the bedroom and straight into the boardroom (Look 15). Last but not least, the baby blue draped cardigan that offers a myriad of styles (Look 33), when paired with either a simple tee or over a layered tank (Look 36).
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Look 4, Diesel FW23
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Look 7, Diesel FW23
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Look 12, Diesel FW23
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Look 14, Diesel FW23
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Look 18, Diesel FW23
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Look 30, Diesel FW23
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Look 33, Diesel FW23
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Look 40, Diesel FW23
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Look 46, Diesel FW23
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Look 59, Diesel FW23
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Look 63, Diesel FW23
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Look 6, Fendi FW23
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Look 7, Fendi FW23
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Look 11, Fendi FW23
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Look 14, Fendi FW23
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Look 15, Fendi FW23
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Look 18, Fendi FW23
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Look 33, Fendi FW23
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Look 36, Fendi FW23
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Look 44, Fendi FW23
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