What makes a good fashion documentary? There are certain recognisable mainstays; from the pre-runway mayhem—and designer tantrums—to a deep dive of the genius and technicality behind each garment. A good fashion documentary serves to transport the viewer into a fantasy world, away from the boredom of everyday life. The viewer gets to experience the fashion landscape through the eyes of an industry professional—a world filled with the lushness and glamour of countless brilliant creatives—and marvel at the otherworldly designs from the best ateliers.
Certain fashion documentaries have definitely made their mark and stood out amongst the masses. Dior and I (2014) follows the career of a young Raf Simons as he is appointed the new creative director at Dior, showcasing the eight weeks leading up to his inaugural show. The September Issue (2009) revolves around American Vogue, honing in on the most important month for fashion magazines. The documentary does a deep dive of the fashion editorial world at the height of its powers, following esteemed editors including Anna Wintour, André Leon Talley and Hamish Bowles, as they discuss the weighted issue in detail. These popular documentaries have been viewed by many and are the ones that always get brought up.
However, there are many obscure and underground masterpieces in this category of fashion media. Many of these fashion films have been overlooked or buried deep within the internet, waiting to be uncovered. The collective all contain multitudes of information—with some following the genre formula to a satisfying tee—while others break free and surprise us. Nonetheless, all are educational and inspiring while keeping you engrossed during its run time. Below, Vogue has compiled a curated list comprising of these hidden gems.
1 / 6
Notebook on Cities and Clothes (1989)
This documentary illustrates the story of German filmmaker Wim Wenders, when he was first comissioned by the Centre Pompidou to make a documentary about Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto. “Fashion? I’ll have nothing of it,” were the words that came out from Wenders’ mouth before shooting the documentary. He clearly came around, but didn’t make a straightforward fashion documentary at all—this unusual classic is, instead, a philosophical essay about two modes of visual communication, a look at the connections between Yamamoto’s chosen medium and Wenders’ own.
Watch the documentary here.
2 / 6
Issey Miyake Moves (2002)
Few designers have impacted fashion in the way the late Japanese designer Issey Miyake has. One of the first prolific Japanese designers to gain international popularity, he was best known for this work exploring the way the body moved and interacted with garments, specifically seen with his introduction of the Pleats Please line in 1993. Featuring his innovative fabric work and method of pleating, the well-received line is a mainstay in many wardrobes. The documentary also hones in on Miyake’s sources of inspiration, highlighting the life and career of a philosophical and meticulous human being. As much an architect and artist as he is a maker of clothes, Issey Miyake Moves serves as an ode to a true fashion visionary that the world lost too soon.
Watch the documentary here.
3 / 6
Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist (2018)
This fashion documentary covered the life of the late Vivienne Westwood, as she cultivated, synthesised and proliferated punk in the UK during the 1970s. Her work with partner Malcolm McLaren on the famous SEX line brought the grunge beauty of punk into mainstream consciousness through her anarchic design aesthetic. As illustrated in this documentary, Westwood continues to embody an establishment-oppositional sensibility well into her 70’s, from her social and environmental activism to her obvious exasperation with being a documentary subject.
Watch the documentary trailer here.
4 / 6
Fresh Dressed (2015)
Fresh Dressed is a detailed chronicle of the symbiotic relationship between hip hop and clothing, pervasive in style and culture till this day. From b-boy style in the Bronx during the ’70s all the way to the runways of today, this documentary offers a fantastic mix of historical documentation and contemporary cultural critique. Some of the biggest faces in the music world such as Kanye West and Pharrell Williams are featured alongside industry professionals in this 90-minute film, perfect for fashion and hip hop lovers.
Watch the documentary here.
5 / 6
The Boy Who Made Shoes For Lizards (2017)
This film follows the rise of one of fashion’s most esteemed shoemakers, Manolo Blahnik. Known as the ‘Sultan of Slippers’ and ‘Holy Man of Heels’, Blahnik’s climb to success was backed by the approval of many reputable industry names such as Naomi Campbell, John Galliano and Rihanna. Providing viewers with an in-depth portrait on how Blahnik’s confidence and dedication led him to be a pioneer and titan in the industry, it is a must-watch for anyone who owns a pair of Manolo Blahnik mules or footwear fans in general.
Watch the documentary trailer here.
6 / 6
Calender Girl (2020)
In the fashion industry, fashion weeks are the focal point of the year. The now-popular CFDA fashion calendar maps out the dates and timings of all the fashion shows in New York City, but its humble beginnings point to the one and only Ruth Finley. Calender Girl follows Finley in the 1940s, as the editor constructed the calendar that became a bible for the attendees of New York Fashion Week. The documentary sheds light on the realities of working in the industry, as well as intimate moments from Finley’s personal life after retirement.
Watch the documentary here.
