End of an era: The most iconic collections from Raf Simons throughout the years

What makes a fashion label iconic? What makes it stand out among the plethora of brands in the industry? Some might say it’s timeless design and quality products, while others might argue it’s the spectacle of runway shows with a sprinkle of marketing. To a legion of fans, Raf Simons is all of the above and more. To date, the brand has earned a well-deserved following within the industry. Even then, however, all good things must come to an end.

Creative director and designer Raf Simons announced on 21 November that he was ceasing operations for his namesake label. The Belgian designer took to Instagram to share that his spring/summer 2023 collection—his London debut—would be the label’s last. He also thanked his team and fandom, stating that it was “the conclusion of an extraordinary 27 year journey”.

From its humble yet explosive debut in 1995, Simons’s work at his label was heavily inspired by youth subculture. Taking inspiration from areas such as music and the arts, his points of focus would soon shape the industry. His fall/winter 2001 collection, titled ‘Riot Riot Riot’, was the epitome of industrial, grungy and atmospheric. Inspired by the Welsh rock band Manic Street Preachers, the collection saw models in oversized hoodies, sweaters and long trench coats, befitting of items actual rioters wore.

The riot bomber jackets from that collection are still considered one of the most ‘grail-worthy’ items in archive fashion to date. Spring/summer 2002 was a personal favourite of the designer, with models being sent down the runway covered in masks and carrying flares. The label’s strong imagery and rebellious attitude displayed during its shows set it apart from its counterparts with ease.

The very next year, Simons began to infuse streetwear with tailoring, a style many designers have come to emulate almost a decade later. Fall/winter 2005 saw Simons’s reinterpretation of classic menswear silhouettes alongside adventurous tailoring that played with volume and cuts. The world was soon treated to collaborations between Simons and Sterling Ruby as well as designers like Marc Jacobs and Christopher Kane through the mid 2010s. Since then, superstars including Rihanna, A$AP Rocky and Drake have all been seen donning the label’s most recognisable pieces.

Raf Simons spring/summer 2021 was a breath of fresh air, as it was the brand’s first showing of womenswear. It was also Simons’s first collection after joining forces with Miuccia Prada to helm the iconic Italian label Prada. Unsurprisingly, the collection held its own and featured strong tailoring with whimsical prints and patterns. It also took inspiration from Simons’s work at Prada too, with nylon dresses and wool coats in full effect.

While Simons’s creative vision and design aesthetic at his namesake label might not have been for everyone, his impact and influence on fashion throughout the years is undeniable. Here at Vogue, we celebrate his tenure at his namesake label by paying homage to some of his best runway collections to date.