Over the last few years, there has been a steady influx of Asian designers bursting on to the fashion scene and making their mark. From fashion’s wunderkind designer Peter Do taking the top job at Helmut Lang to Vietnamese brands La Lune and Fanci Club breaking the internet with their viral campaigns and star-studded clientele, the East has certainly cemented itself as the hotspot for budding new talent. Closer to home, it seems that the narrative isn’t much different. At least this is the case for Indonesia, which has steadily become a melting pot of unbridled creativity and innovation. In March, Vogue Singapore attended Plaza Indonesia Fashion Week 2024, which saw 75 of Indonesia’s most notable brands showcase their latest collections for all the world to see.
Across the six-day extravaganza, two brands stood out from the impressive line-up of emerging and esteemed designers. The first was DIBBA, a brand known for infusing Eastern embroidery techniques with svelte Western tailoring. Shares 35-year-old founder and designer Faisal Shah of DIBBA’s identity: “With every collection, we look at how to harmoniously fuse the East and West, reimaging silhouettes and cuts from two vastly contrasting aesthetics.” On the other hand, Artkea is a heritage brand that prides itself on breaking the mould when it comes to traditional modest wear. At the helm is architect-turned-entrepreneur Arvi Anangga Sardadi, who runs the brand alongside his three sisters. What sets Artkea apart would be the five sub-lines that make up the brand—Bloom, Lace, Stripes, Colours and Classic—each distinctive in design but synonymous with one another. “Having several lines allows for a more diverse range of customers”, notes Sardadi. “I think that any successful brand needs that balance of creativity and entrepreneurship in order to go far.” Below, the aspiring designers delve into the irrespective creative processes, experiences and hopes for the future.
DIBBA
Could you take us through the motivation and inspiration behind why you started DIBBA?
The idea behind DIBBA stemmed from my deep love for prints and textiles. Each print has its own narrative, and I strive to capture the different emotions and messages through the various pieces within each collection.
What is the ethos behind your brand?
DIBBA’s essence is rooted in creativity and craftsmanship. Our core belief celebrates individuality, giving you the freedom to express your true self through our designs. Each piece is more than just clothing, it’s part of a story. We strive for sustainability where possible, often breathing new life into used fabrics, further perpetuating their stories.
Does your heritage play a role in your designs?
Yes of course! Growing up in a multiracial household was like a melting pot of cultures. From family gatherings filled with diverse flavours to celebrations steeped in tradition, every experience was a melting pot of different backgrounds. These moments have certainly influenced my work, with all my designs infused with a sense of culture and connection.
What was the message and inspiration behind the Silk Road collection?
Silk Road served as a tribute to the captivating allure and opulence of the ancient Orient, drawing inspiration from the historic trade routes from China through India to Persia. Our aim was to curate an amalgamation of diverse narratives through intricate prints and designs, seamlessly blending traditional materials and craftsmanship with contemporary techniques of laser cutting and 3D printing.
As an emerging label, what are some of the challenges you face?
In my opinion, many up-and-coming brands encounter the challenge of balancing artistic expression in fashion with maintaining commercial success. This involves creating a strong line of ready-to-wear pieces that drive sales.
What’s next?
We’re currently looking to expand our product lines, perhaps branching out into jewellery and other accessories. International shows or presentations might also be on the horizon for us, as we look to tap into new markets outside of Southeast Asia.
Artkea
Could you take us through the motivation and inspiration behind Artkea?
Artkea was actually founded by my mother, Tini Sardadi, in the late ’80s. What started as a hand-crafting hobby grew into a successful home business, eventually becoming what it is today. Now run by my sisters and me, we hope to continue to expand the business while expanding in ways that can bring together a larger community of customers.
What is the ethos behind your brand?
Artkea’s brand ethos has always been to create modern yet timeless pieces for those who value intricate designs and quality craftsmanship.
Artkea currently has five sub-lines—Bloom, Lace, Stripes,Colours and Classic. Could you elaborate on how each of them is different?
The sub-lines complement each other, but are also distinctive in their own ways. Artkea Bloom is where we explore variations of floral patterns, and Lace by Artkea provides a modern twist on traditional occasion wear. Artkea Stripes is for the urban dwellers who prefer a refreshed update on the classic striped shirt, and Artkea Colours offers wardrobe staples in bold shades. Lastly, Artkea Classic is for accessories, and is also our oldest line to date.
How does having various lines affect your target demographic?
While each line does not have its own demographic, having an array of offerings in a multitude of styles allows for a wider—and more diverse—range of audiences. Additionally, we tend to design everything cohesively as we want all the pieces across the various lines to complement each other. If you look at this collection, there is a common thread across the 24 looks.
Does your heritage play a role in your designs?
Yes, it definitely plays a pivotal part. Growing up next to our mother’s workshop, my sisters and I developed an innate sense of design and craft from an early age. Back when I was in school, I used to go straight to the workshop after class, spending my afternoons drawing and working on little items of my own. This helped catapult my interest in design, symmetry and proportions, lending its influence to design principles I follow to this day.
How do cultural occasions play a role in shaping the brand?
With festive seasons being the most important period on the calendar for us, we usually aim to drop our collections around these times. These occasions are also ideal for us to strengthen our brand identity through hosting community events and pop-ups, along with partnering other brands for collaborations.
The May ‘Escape’ issue of Vogue Singapore is now available for pre-order online and will be available in-store from 13 May.
