Early last month, Vogue Singapore attended Plaza Indonesia Fashion Week 2024. Hosted by the luxury mall in the buzzy city of Jakarta, the six-day extravaganza saw 31 shows and 75 of Indonesia’s most notable brands showcase their latest collections for all of the world to see. With the lineup seeing a mix of contemporary and modest wear brands, it was a melting pot of emerging young designers and long-established names.
One of the standout shows from the week was a new addition to the schedule, Adeline Esther. The only couture designer in the lineup, Esther’s 15-look show marked her fashion week debut, and the designer’s second bespoke collection showcase under her namesake label. Titled ‘Mercurial’, the collection saw voluminous statement gowns that were constructed from sequin, in various sizes, shapes and cuts. Each sequin strip was melted down and reshaped, before being hand-sewn together and embellished with metallic accents.
When asked about the meaning behind the amorphous collection name, the Esmod Design School graduate shared: “Due to the materials used, my dresses appear fluid and metallic, reminiscent of mercury in its molten state. Additionally, the term can also refer to a person who is quick-witted and decisive, much like my label’s target demographic.”
Confident and unfettered in her approach, Esther’s creative ethos is one that is lucid yet aspirational. “I started my label to build a brand that helps women feel confident and glamorous for their most momentous occasions,” shares the designer. “It has always been my aim since the very start to create clothing that brings joy and make people feel special.”
Despite notable success and a steadfast growth within the industry, Esther admits that building a brand from the ground up is no easy feat. “As an emerging label, we encounter challenges like securing funding, managing production scalability, and finding reliable suppliers and partners.” She also notes the constant endeavour of staying creative while retaining commercial appeal, stating that it was all about finding “the right balance”.
Below, the designer delves into what drives her passion, her design ethos and the differences between the fashion landscape in Indonesia and Singapore.
What inspired you to start your own label?
I was inspired to start my own label because I wanted to create a brand that celebrates individuality, beauty and confidence the way I see it. I believe that fashion should make everyone feel their best selves, no matter their background.
Could you take us through your creative process for this collection?
Every collection of mine typically starts with creating dummy designs using calico fabric before I commit to the final textiles. I prefer draping to drawing as it allows me to better visualise the shapes and forms of the garments, allowing me to refine my vision before bringing it to life.
“I believe that fashion should make everyone feel their best selves, no matter their background.”
What was it like preparing for a runway show during Plaza Indonesia Fashion Week?
It was truly an exhilarating experience filled with excitement and anticipation. From all the coordinating and planning to the fittings and rehearsals, seeing the models on the runway it the looks was incredibly gratifying and rewarding.
How is the design process for couture different from ready-to-wear?
Designing couture definitely requires more attention to details, along with an emphasis on providing an exclusive and intimate experience to one’s clients. It allows me to fully explore my creative vision, and dedicate all my efforts to perfecting my craft.
How is the fashion landscape different in Indonesia as compared to Singapore?
Due to its large population and growing economy, Indonesia presents a dynamic market with a wider range of tastes and varying preferences. There is a strong sense of tradition and culture there as well, with many emerging designers tapping into their roots for inspiration. On the other hand, Singapore’s fashion scene is distinguished by its cosmopolitan and modern approach to things. The city offers a discerning and affluent customer base that places a bigger emphasis on sleek and opulent designs.
Lastly, where do you see the future of Adeline Esther?
In the following months, I plan to expand my label’s presence regionally through building a customer base and establishing a strong brand identity. I also aim to continue pushing the boundaries of my craft and creativity whilst staying true to my vision.
