Acclaimed fashion designer Carolina Herrera once said: “The difference between fashion and art is that fashion is art in movement.” This quote speaks volumes of the fashion industry and its contiguous relationship with the art world. Many of the biggest fashion houses today have referenced the past works of various artists and the congruence between the two worlds is simply undeniable. It seems that smaller homegrown brands have also picked up on the notion. At least this is the case for Malaysian designer Kew Wai Chia, who goes by the name Caro Chia.
Chia, who was born and raised in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, started her eponymous brand after graduating from the University of Brighton. Shares Chia of her motivation behind starting her brand: “I used to struggle with how my design ideas could translate into a physical brand, but after I discovered my obsession with fashion’s relation to art, I never looked back.” As for why she opted to use her own name, Chia explains that it creates a deeper personal connection, which helps showcase her thoughts and visions in a lucid manner.
Citing renowned sculptors such as Barbara Hepworth and Jean Arp, Chia explains her perspective towards art and its relationship with fashion. “Barbara Hepworth’s sculptures possess a strong sense of intuition. From there I found a deep connection to uncertainty and learnt to see the beauty in odd shapes, arc lines and raw surfaces. It induces a sense of tranquillity and peace, and is what I base my design philosophies around.” She also notes the ability that art has to bring about a touch of sensibility within fashion, creating a space in which strong emotions and fragility are evoked.
“The uncertain shapes and contrasting colours meld together like paint strokes on a canvas, presenting the wearer with a sharp and modern look.”
One only needs a quick glance at the brand’s work to notice its surrealist references. The recent autumn/winter 2023 collection, titled The ArcStory, explores how biomorphic forms and angled shapes can result in new fabrication techniques. Deliberate draping, subversive cutouts and layered details are present in the garments in subdued shades of baby blue and peanut brown. The manner in which the garments sit on the wearer’s body reflects that of bulbous and curvy sculptures. “The uncertain shapes and contrasting colours meld together like paint strokes on a canvas, presenting the wearer with a sharp and modern look,” highlights Chia.
The design process is one of trial and error, and sees Chia and her team unpicking various items and studying their construction before applying it to their design blueprint. “One of our references for this collection was a highchair. We took it apart and fitted it around a human body,” laughs Chia. There is an extensive focus on using first-rate materials in all the garments as well, with some of the textiles being exclusively sourced from Japan.
She breaks down the technical nuances of how particular fabrics sit on the wearer. “Superior wool fabric is necessary as the firmness of the wool greatly affects how it contours the body.” This particular wool fabric is used to make the corset tops and dress, which are produced by local pattern makers and a refugee sewing centre. “Being able to deliver well-made clothing is another method to promote sustainability and I like to imagine our pieces still holding their value after decades, just like a vintage number from Helmut Lang or Prada would.”
But with the core design team consisting of three fresh graduates and Chia, the creative process does come with its challenges. “The construction and assembly of specific fabrics require a lot of time and attention, and our team is simply not big enough to do anything on a larger scale,” notes Chia.
“Every human being needs to have a moment of fantasy and today dream. It is what differentiates us from all other living creatures.”
Speaking on the theme of ‘Reverie’, she imagines a world detached from material wants and one that embraces unpredictability. “Every human being needs to have a moment of fantasy and today dream. It is what differentiates us from all other living creatures.”As for what the future holds for the brand, Chia has her sights set on further expansion outside the regional market. “In order to be stocked in international middleman stores, we have to create pieces that resonate with western markets. We will continue to work closely with suitable media platforms as well, and the rest is up to lady luck.”
The July/August ‘Reverie’ issue of Vogue Singapore is available for sale online and in-store from 13 July 2023.
