Is it possible for a trend to centre itself around avant-garde design while being relatively minimalist? While that sentence may seem paradoxical, a genre of clothing known as subversive basics may have just struck that balance. The term was coined by TikToker @thealgorythm who is also a former WGSN trend forecaster. In her video, she explained that this new style is “all about basics that rebel up to the point of losing their utility”.
Think: tank tops, lingerie, bodysuits and other traditional loungewear but with risqué cut-outs, slashes, straps and layers. These pieces, often in muted tones, are a twist on the basic everyday garments—perhaps a futuristic take on normcore—and serve as outfit building blocks as well.
This year saw various brands incorporate subversive basics into their collections. Casey Cadwaller’s Mugler featured popular body-hugging dresses that contoured the body with geometric cutouts. The 2021 LVMH Prize winner Nensi Dojaka’s claim to fame was the fusing of mesh and thin knit straps to construct and reimagine the female form. Ex-stylist turned fashion designer Hyein Seo has been adopting this style as well, often integrating it within the utilitarian and neoteric garments of her namesake label.
With the pandemic hopefully behind us, the highly sought-after minimal and effortless aesthetic is a thing of the past. Subversive basics seem to strike the perfect balance between casual dressing while still making an outfit detailed and considered. Add on the revival of Y2K and DIY fashion this year and it is of no surprise that it has found an even wider appreciation amongst the fashion set.
Below, Vogue Singapore curates some of the innovative brands embracing the trend, and the best pieces to try out for yourself.
1 / 24
Mugler
Founded by fashion designer Thierry Mugler more than four decades ago, Mugler is the epitome of female empowerment. The brand prides itself on celebrating strong, confident women and the beauty of femininity.
The arrival of new creative director Casey Cadwallader brought about a shift in what was perceived as the industry’s “beauty standard” and made it a point to cater to various figures and body types. Mugler’s creations, to this day, are unashamedly bold, sexy and glamorous and often cast women as heroines and goddesses in equal measure.
Shop Mugler here.
2 / 24
Illusion spiral dress, $730
3 / 24
Frame bodysuit, $890
4 / 24
Gradient sheer spiral leggings, $690
5 / 24
Nensi Dojaka
Albanian fashion designer Nensi Dojaka is the new face in town. The Central Saint Martins alumnus has become a favourite in the fashion scene, with many celebrities over the last year donning her creations. She is also the recipient of the 2021 LVMH Prize for Young Designers.
Dojaka is best known for her lingerie-inspired dresses and cutout pieces that reference ’90s aesthetics and also take inspiration from designers like Helmut Lang and Ann Demeulemeester. Her famous fans include Emily Ratajkowski, Sophie Turner and Bella Hadid.
Shop Nensi Dojaka here.
6 / 24
Black cut-out bodysuit, $356
7 / 24
White cut-out shirt, $288
8 / 24
Black paneled maxi dress, $846
9 / 24
Ottolinger
Based in Berlin, deconstructionism is key with Ottolinger. The brand’s garments often undergo various degrees of sartorial experimentation and ecological enquiry. Identifiable by an unwavering feminine pride, the clothes are made of organic materials such as wool and lace. Futuristic colours and experimental fabrics round up reasons to love this label.
Shop Ottolinger here.
10 / 24
Cut-out detail crop top, $429
11 / 24
Cut-out detail mini dress, $824
12 / 24
Cut-out flared trousers, $429
13 / 24
KNWLS London
KNWLS is a South London fashion label that was founded by designer Charlotte Knowles and her partner Alexandre Arsenault. The brand is widely known for their vibrant mesh tops, low-slung pants, and second-skin dresses. Floral prints are often seen on their products as well, along with bold stripes and geometric motifs. KNWLS also uses recycled fabrics and manufactures locally, an effort to reduce its carbon footprint.
Shop KNWLS here.
14 / 24
Celest mesh trousers, $540
15 / 24
Sage Celest leotard, $490
16 / 24
Beige Celest top, $275
17 / 24
Isa Boulder
Based in Bali, Isa Boulder focuses on promoting the heritage and culture of its beautiful province. Eco-conscious and bespoke in their approach, their pieces are made-to-order. Enmeshing cutting-edge aesthetics with traditional craftsmanship, co-founders and friends Cecilia “Lia” Basari and Yuli Suri work exclusively with local artisans. Environmentally-friendly textiles are used when constructing their experimental tops, knitted garter leggings, and sheer woven bodysuits.
Shop Isa Boulder here.
18 / 24
Blue map knit gloves, $193
19 / 24
SSENSE exclusive white maxi dress, $428
20 / 24
Brown & green expandable T-shirt, $264
21 / 24
Hyein Seo
A household name in the fashion sphere by now, Hyein Seo’s work is widely recognised and celebrated. The Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp graduate was a former stylist to Rihanna, and is now the head designer of her namesake contemporary streetwear label. Seo’s work takes inspiration from a myriad of places, with garments featuring a dystopic and futuristic style. There is a utilitarian element to her pieces as well, many of them treading the line between masculine and feminine.
Shop Hyein Seo here.
22 / 24
Heiro tank top, $388
23 / 24
Sport knit dress, $241
24 / 24
