In recent weeks, South Korean skincare brand Purcell’s 24/7 Colostrum Ampoule Mist has been making its rounds on the internet after receiving glowing recommendations by Blackpink’s Rosé and top K-beauty influencers like Pony. With its promises to minimise the appearance of pores and leave you with glowing, moisturised skin due to its star ingredient colostrum, it’s no surprise that the viral product has been flying off the shelves. And while Purcell isn’t the first skincare brand to launch colostrum products, this might be the first time this ingredient has hit the mainstream with such fervour, leaving us wondering: could colostrum be the next big trend in skincare?
But before we dive headfirst into dousing our skin with this hyped up ingredient, it’s worth investigating if the wondrous properties of colostrum are backed up by science, and who may best benefit from adding it to their skincare routines. To that end, early research involving sheep colostrum suggests that it has potential benefits when it comes to wound healing, fibroblast proliferation and antioxidant activity. However, that isn’t absolute. Dr Sylvia Ramirez, the Medical and Scientific Director of Cutis Medical Laser Clinics cautions that these findings are preliminary, and require further validation and human trials. “At this stage, colostrum remains an emerging ingredient rather than a proven one,” she explains.
With that in mind, let’s delve into the potential benefits and pitfalls of colostrum before hopping onto the bandwagon.
What is colostrum?
As the mothers among us may know, colostrum—often dubbed “liquid gold”—is the first form of breast milk produced by mammals in the first few days after giving birth. Densely packed with nutrients, growth factors, antibodies and antioxidants, it helps newborns fight off potential infections, as well as build up their immunity and gut function.
While there have been a handful of colostrum skincare products in recent years, its most common form for human consumption is in the form of oral supplements for gut health support. Although humans do produce colostrum, skincare products and supplements typically derive this ingredient from cows and sheep.
Potential advantages of colostrum
Colostrum has a high growth factor content, many of which are associated with cell growth and repair, and includes growth factors that have been shown to play a significant role in skin regeneration and repair. Additionally, it also contains several bioactive components that may provide other health benefits. “[Colostrum] contains lactoferrin, which has antibacterial, antiviral, and anti-inflammatory properties, and has been shown to promote wound healing. This is why colostrum is often referred to as ‘nature’s first defence system’,” shares Dr Ramirez.
In line with these findings, skincare companies that produce colostrum products typically promote it as an ingredient that helps with soothing and healing sensitised and stressed skin, as well as improving skin elasticity, which in turn minimises the appearance of pores. However, Dr Ramirez reiterates that the majority of studies have been conducted on animal studies or cell cultures, and have yet to undergo the rigorous testing and human trials required to medically support these claims.
Who might benefit from colostrum
“In theory, colostrum may be beneficial for individuals with compromised or stressed skin,” says Dr Ramirez . This includes those struggling with compromised skin barriers, inflammatory conditions such as rosacea and eczema and aging skin. “Its antioxidant content may also help protect against oxidative stress, which contributes to wrinkles and loss of elasticity,” she explains.
Conversely, colostrum may not be suitable for everyone. Because it is rich in proteins similar to those in cow’s milk, people with allergies or sensitivities to dairy should err on the side of caution and keep an eye out for allergic reactions. The growth factors in colostrum may also exacerbate some acne conditions, while its ability to inhibit the increase of keratinocytes—the cells that form the outermost skin layer—may conflict with treatments for skin conditions like psoriasis, which require increased cell turnover.
Colostrum vs. collagen
Though there is no direct correlation between colostrum and collagen, many of their purported skincare benefits seem to overlap, resulting in some skincare companies and influencers crowning it the “new collagen”. While both ingredients support skin generation, they do so in completely different ways. Collagen acts as a structural protein, providing our skin the material it needs to stay firm and elastic. On the other hand, the growth factors and immune proteins in colostrum have the potential to help stimulate our fibroblasts—the cells that help grow connective tissue—to kickstart the skin repair and regeneration process.
Dr Ramirez puts it simply: “Collagen supplies the building blocks, while colostrum acts as the blueprint directing repair.” As such, the two ingredients are not mutually interchangeable and could potentially have a synergistic effect when used together if formulated and absorbed correctly.
