The whispers of slimmer fitting silhouettes have been swirling on the runways: Indie sleaze-leaning skinny jeans at McQueen and Balenciaga, to the more Parisian chic straight leg and cropped trousers of Chanel, while Boss and Marni herald closer fit capris as a perfect springtime piece. Now, the cigarette pants of the ’80s are making a comeback.
Named after the distinctive shape of their leg, the cigarette pants are characterised by their slim silhouette and straight cut from knee to ankle, reminiscent of the shape of a cigar. Their length, which usually grazes the ankle area, evokes the stylings of chic women from decades gone by and a sartorial sense of nostalgia, the close fit and flash of an ankle, together, a moment of sensuality. Beyond some of the most iconic women of all time shimmying into some cigarette pants (from Princess Diana to Sarah Jessica Parker and, today, Bella Hadid), they represent the perfect hybrid between skinny and straight cut, an alternative for those who were previously wronged by the skinny jean supremacy of the mid ’00s. (Us included).
Considering the jeans we’ll see from spring lurching into summer, you can’t help but notice the retro aesthetic resurgence rearing its head once again. There’s still the emphasis on Y2K-inspired, low-rise silhouettes a la the bootcut jeans making more of an appearance in Bella Hadid’s current denim rotation, as well as the denim capri and more cropped styles. The cigarette jeans revival totally makes sense, as a soft launch into the trendy slimmer fits. With cigarette jeans, the hips are hugged but the legs still have an element of relax.
Unsure of how to style cigarette pants? Want to venture into cigarette jeans? Shimmy on up.
How to wear the ’80s cigarette pants this season
The spring 2025 fashion trends continue to make reference to the past, salvaging pieces from an era where they were at their peak in popularity. Firstly, we can take some sartorial inspiration for how the cigarette jeans of the ’80s were first styled, and what enchanted the most stylish set of celebrities to don them:
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Ripped cigarette jeans with folded hems and a crisp white t-shirt
This is probably the most classic style of the decade, and when the cigarette jeans took center stage as a staple for the era’s queens of pop—from Debbie Harry to Madonna. Here, we see it in its most simple but striking iteration on Madge: Wear the cigarette jeans with the hem folded up, a white V-neck t-shirt (yep, v-necks are back with a vengeance too), and a leather jacket.
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Straight cut jeans with a blazer and boots
Princess Diana, on the other hand, took the styling in a different direction. In her take on the original trend, the jeans in question were paired with tan cowboy boots, a graphic sweatshirt, a cap, and a striped blazer. It’s an iconic look—we’ve all seen this before on Di—that combines a casual attitude with royal refinement. It still feels like a contemporary approach for the elegant woman who renounces neither comfort nor notions of femininity. And tucking the jeans into boots? Also on its way back.
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Cigarette jeans with a t-shirt and oversized jacket
And what happens if we combine both styling formulas? Well here it is on the one and only Sarah Jessica Parker, looking as ’80s as one could get. Here, cigarette jeans again feature cuffed and rolled up legs in a medium wash, paired with a white T-shirt, an oversized jacket with big lapels, and preppy sneakers. It has a sporty essence, but also a relaxed kind of elegance—absolutely on-trend, and a fail-safe silhouette.
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Cigarette jeans with sneakers
Combine your jeans with a classic basic garment like a t-shirt or a sweater, plus some enduring sneakers, and you’ll always be able to fall back on this infallible formula. And, it’s ideal for everyday wear. Here, as in the ’80s too, you use accessories to elevate the look: A beige trench coat is enough to give it a more formal twist, but you can also add a statement handbag or fun hair accessory to inject some personality.
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Cigarette jeans with a shirt over a T-shirt and sandals
The styles of the past are easily adaptable to the needs and preferences of the present. If you’re looking for your next outfit for the office or for a more casual outing, a slimmer fit and ankle cropped piece of denim, paired with a basic tee, a fitted blazer, and thin strappy heels is a failsafe bet. The ideal formula to balance comfort and modernity with cool uniformity.
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Cigarette jeans with a long overshirt
Here’s another variation of the past that proves you can mix and match with this trend to make it feel modern, contemporary, and cool. In this case, the urban and casual aura of cigarette jeans merges with the formality of a long, belted overshirt and kitten heels. It’s ’60s top, ’80s bottom.
This story was originally published on Vogue.com.
