Fendi SS25
Show review in a line: Fashion’s fascination with effortlessness permeates Fendi SS25.
Designer: Kim Jones
Location: Superstudio Maxi, Milan
The vision: The done comes undone at Fendi SS25 in a deliberate celebration of everyday beauty. There has been a lot of discussion in the fashion world about what it really means to be effortless. The narrative has since evolved. Initially, it emerged through conversations surrounding quiet luxury. Then, in true cyclical fashion, people began to feel nostalgic for simpler times. Finally, the concept of dualism surfaced—what does it mean for a woman to truly be herself, without the pressure to appear put together?
The vibe: Kim Jones presented his interpretation of this at what seemed like just the right moment. How does a maison, historically known for its luxurious furs, channel arguably one of the biggest cultural shifts the industry has seen in the past two years? First, it pares things back in its entirety, starting with something as tactile as a show set. Trickling into the first collection of the season, showgoers walked into a minimalist space illuminated with all but a fluorescent block of light. Celebrities like South Korean actress Song Hye-Kyo sported some of Fendi’s latest designs: simple, restrained, and not too fussy.
What to shop from the collection: On the runway, there were references both expected and nuanced–the beauty direction leaned into bare make up and dishevelled hair, for instance. To the uninitiated, certain themes came across as literal–but it is undeniable that these are the very pieces that might fly off the shelves. Bath robe-inspired dresses, lugsole boots and ethereal embellished sheer skirts leaned into a more consumer-friendly appetite. Despite the want for ease, the collection’s bags still shone bright in the form of an oversized buttery soft clutch that melted into the arms and matching embellished Baguettes. Our top pick is the former, as we foresee this being a great everyday option. After all, there is truly nothing like a Fendi bag: though in a collection filled with the notion of fluidity, its statement factor (what we know and love a Fendi bag for) is all the more apparent.
Marni SS25
Show review in a line: In Francesco Risso’s fantastical world, Marni’s spring/summer 2025 showing is an exploration of the heart of design.
Designer: Francesco Risso
Location: Viale Umbria 42
The vision: “Beauty is a white rabbit scampering across your yard. You chase it. Though you fall short in capturing it, in the mad rush you find yourself somewhere wondrous. As creatures of routine and ritual, there are few things in life that move us here to there quite like the pursuit of the sublime. Beauty is a velocity, not a destination.” The notion of velocity set the scene. Over the years, the Italian luxury brand has become an alternative beacon for the wondrous, playful, and sometimes, even weird. As with a select few labels (read: the Prada’s and Loewe’s of the world), the Marni lover is a character well defined: unconventional, unabashed, and unwavering. This season, Francesco Risso leaned even further into this idea, an electrifying reaffirmation that can only come from one’s cult status.
The vibe: But, what exactly does it take for a designer to formulate a cult following? Today, guests entered a maze-like show set, drenched in red light, with chairs facing every which way, all centred around three pianos. Though this was my first Marni show, it was strikingly clear from the outset that Risso has an adoring league of fans. In the crowd was an interesting mix of showgoers. Rappers Future and Jack Harlow were dapperly decked out in Marni menswear; a mix of artists, designers, writers and photographers peppered the audience in synergistic conversation. It took an hour for the show to start, but when it did , it opened with a score by Dev Hynes, brought to life by musicians Hynes, Sharleen Chidiac and Adam Tendler.
What to shop from the collection: Approving nods followed an avant-garde parade of sailor-inspired creations, from oversized hats to body-hugging tailoring. Models donned ballet flats, pussy-bow blouses, and tent-like dresses fashioned out of leather and suede. The central point of Risso’s lineup, however, was a disruption of decades and proportions. Skinny trousers made a comeback alongside narrow-shouldered blazers; flute skirts were paired with matching capes; mid-century A-line dresses were adorned with a dizzying array of crystals—all in a time-swirling presentation for the books. As Risso shares: “This is the romance of Marni: the ephemeral, lingering desire to go chasing rabbits.”
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