T o claim that a fragrance possesses star quality is perhaps an odd statement to make, and yet it seems there is no better way to describe the latest addition to the Chanel L’Exclusif family. A new interpretation of the iconic Bleu scent, it harbours a distinctive allure and thrall that is hard to put into words. A je ne sais quoi, if you will, which can be credited to the exacting convictions of Olivier Polge, the maison’s in-house perfumer. “For Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif, the goal was to go beyond perfume. We had to find the tone that would express our vision of a masculine extrait by repurposing the qualities of feminine extraits, such as preciousness and intensity, while adding masculinity and depth,” expounds Polge.
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The statement feels particularly apt in light of the view before us. We are in the presidential suite of Park Hyatt Bangkok, where a multitude of Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif bottles have been set up to showcase this delicate balance. The angular silhouette of each bottle lies within fragile cages of gold. Radiant, snow-white blooms accompany the almost pitch-black bottle. Against all odds, it pulls off the impossible: an expression of boldness without being overpowering. Mystique while also imparting a sense of warmth. Feminine and masculine. Naturally, achieving this sort of equilibrium is no easy task. The Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif took a full year to complete, with Polge working tirelessly to discover and convey a new take on the original cult-favourite perfume created by his father. As he tells it, his eureka moment arrives only after deciding to focus his efforts on one of the key ingredients from the Bleu range: sandalwood.
Among the trees
Make no mistake—sandalwood remains the backbone of all Bleu variants. What distinguishes the Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif, however, is Polge’s decision to showcase a different dimension of the ingredient. “The sandalwood we select stands out, first and foremost, for its botanical variety, Santalum austrocaledonicum, but also for its extraction method, which allows us to capture unique woody facets,” Polge muses. “It is therefore essential to work on the combinations of this sandalwood with other raw materials to give the fragrance its energy. The combinations can hinge on the subtlest details.”
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That being said, Polge’s priority before stepping into a space of experimentation and amalgamation is to first ensure the quality of the sandalwood used. Derived from an integrated supply chain on the island of Maré in New Caledonia, this specific category of sandalwood grants a one-of-a-kind flavour that is absent from related variations found in South and Western Australia. In fact, each tree undergoes rigorous testing before it is cut down to ensure it meets all the characteristics that Polge seeks in a fragrance.
Through a dedicated partnership with Robertet, a French perfume manufacturer, it has been stipulated that only 250 sandalwood trees can be cut down per year. According to a press release issued by the house, the tree must be at a height of one metre from the ground. Its trunk, too, needs to be at least 45cm in circumference. If the requirements are not met, the tree is left alone.
“The sandalwood you smell in the Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif is dominant. Its presence is much stronger than in the other Bleus,” Polge remarks. “To complement this, I wanted to incorporate a kind of texture and darkness. And that’s how I landed on leathery
notes.”
Fashion, first
To create an impression of smokiness and depth—qualities typically associated with clothing material—Polge looks to cistus labdanum. An aromatic resin of rockrose, it grants a rich, resinous-like quality that lingers on the skin.Is it mere coincidence that the final piece of the Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif puzzle lies in a revered fashion textile? Not according to Polge. But neither is it a calculated move that is meant to pay tribute to Chanel’s sartorial roots. When speaking to the master perfumer in relation to legacy, kinship and bonds, he makes it clear that he is an individual forging his own path. One that is, fortunately, in alignment with the maison’s codes and philosophy.
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“Creating a scent is a slow process. It’s not a live show, where I’m taking countless types of input and considerations from the get-go. I start with an idea. An impression. I think it’s fair to say that sometimes, the important things happen discreetly,” he says with a laugh.“In a way, I suppose what I find surprising about creating L’Exclusif is realising how far I can go with men’s perfume. There is this idea of freedom that I wouldn’t have expected 10 years ago. The approach to fragrance has become more emotional and more engaging. That is why the Bleu de Chanel L’Exclusif has found its place so easily. It is a new identity that completes the complex mosaic of the Bleu de Chanel family.
This story appears in Vogue Singapore’s October ‘Kinship’ issue, available online.
