10-word show review: A showcase of Valentino’s mastery of craft via black.
Designer: Pierpaolo Piccioli
Location: 51, Rue de L’Universite
The vision: Ardent fans of Valentino will know that over the past few seasons, Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli’s play with color has all but captured the hearts of fashion enthusiasts everywhere. Take Valentino Pink PP, for example, which proved to be a collector-worthy (and infinitely viral) offering from the maison, sending both social media and street style images ablaze. For Valentino’s fall/winter 2024 collection, Piccioli reimagined the season’s offering through a singular vision: each and every piece sent down the runway would be black. It’s important, however, to note that this wasn’t an exercise in monochrome or monotony—as the maison puts it. It was rather an exploration of black in its spectrum of shades and a magnifying glass put to cut, construction, embroidery, and beyond.
The vibe: Hosted within the sprawling space of 51, Rue de L’Université, the afternoon show was as star-studded as we have come to expect. From Serena Williams and Simone Ashley to Rosie Huntington and Maria Sharapova, both friends of the house and fashion stars were eager to witness the 64-look collection, titled Le Noir.
Signature silhouettes: “The blacks of Mark Rothko, the reflective blacks of Pierre Soulages, the sculptural black forms of Constantin Brâncuși—they express the breadth of syntax, the language of black. Representative of universality and individuality, of uniform and idiosyncrasies, black physically functions like no other color, absorbing light,” shared the maison. This narrative presented itself in a few ways, without leaving any of Valentino’s major emblems or signifiers behind. For one, rosettes, arguably the most distinctive motif of the maison, found themselves comfortably perched on sleeves and blouses. Reimagining traditional styles, the collection paid homage to techniques such as the contrast of light and shadow, also known as chiaroscuro. Piccioli’s mastery of embroidery and drapery were amplified by the lineup’s lace and tulle offerings, with shapes enhanced by heavier fabrics such as velvets and crepe. Overall, the collection was an intimate challenging of stereotypes, a democratisation of beauty that shed light on the intricacies of design.
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Look 8, Valentino FW24
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Look 9, Valentino FW24
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Look 10, Valentino FW24
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Look 13, Valentino FW24
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Look 15, Valentino FW24
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Look 28, Valentino FW24
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Look 39, Valentino FW24
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Look 53, Valentino FW24
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