10-word show review: Seán McGirr’s debut for McQueen: a stable debut, sans cohesion.
Designer: Seán McGirr
Location: 23 rue Nationale
The vision: Today marked the highly anticipated debut of Dublin-born creative director Seán McGirr’s collection for Alexander McQueen. Despite the heavy rain at 23 rue Nationale, there was an air of anticipation. Following Sarah Burton’s departure last season, many were eager to witness the direction in which McGirr would take the brand. Drawing inspiration from Lee McQueen’s iconic 1995 ‘Birds’ collection, show notes before the show revealed that McGirr would be unveiling a 52-look lineup. McGirr, the successor of Burton, who spent 26 years at the British brand, is a Dublin-born designer who began his career at Burberry. McGirr subsequently moved on to Dries Van Noten and JW Anderson before landing the top job in October 2023.
The vibe: Easily the most looked-forward-to show of the season, journalists, celebrities and influencers alike flocked to the 13th arrondissement. With throngs of fans awaiting the arrival of Stray Kids’ I.N, showgoers walked onto an industrial show set–an open-air carpark, to be exact–with snaking neon green seats. On seats, were McQueen-embossed soft blankets in a neon lime green, the same colour at the show invites, which in itself has signalled a new era for the brand. “A rough opulence,” read press notes. “Revealing the animal within. A compressed and elongated silhouette. Objects embedded and enveloped. Knitted statuary.”
Signature silhouettes: And objects embedded and enveloped there were. Characterised by larger-than-life engulfing knits, sharp tailoring, tassel-laden horse hoof boots, and studded jackets, the person envisioned for McQueen isn’t quite clear yet. There were hints of McQueen’s design ethos in the beautification of chaos (the smashed mirror dress, for example) and a sense of the macabre with the casting and mood. McGirr’s time at JW Anderson especially peeked through in his menswear offerings and final three looks, adding an unexpected curveball. Tapered trousers with tie-around ankles, boldly printed dresses, and denim adorned with multiple rows of faux fur emerged to be some of the more impactful looks. While hints of McQueen’s DNA were present, it remains too early to gauge the full extent of McGirr’s influence. Is he aiming to captivate a younger audience or create designs that are more accessible? Despite the debut exuding conviction and confidence, only time will unveil the evolution of McGirr’s creative vision.
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Look 1, Alexander McQueen FW24
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