You might have seen them before, particularly in East Asian countries: women in full-faced masks, with just a small opening for their eyes. They might also sport full-length arm sleeves, wide-brimmed sun visors and UV jackets. Sun protection isn’t a new thing—the smell of sunscreen is a core memory for so many of us, because we know what it’s like to be slathered in it. And yet, it seems like the rules around its usage are constantly changing: the Internet has plenty to say about what the appropriate amount to use is, or how we should be reapplying it. Debates over physical and chemical sunscreens continue to rage on. Finding the right sunscreen can sometimes feel like an impossible task, amidst the sea of products and formats available.
But it’s a necessary step in our daily skincare routines—especially in Singapore, where the UV index hovers from six to nine on average. For Dr Shauna Tan-Chiam, an aesthetics doctor and founder of skincare brand Bareness, being on Accutane made her skin more sun-sensitive in her late teens. As she started to make sun protection a daily habit, she noticed a bigger change: her skin looked healthier, brighter and more rested, which helped her feel more confident. Beyond shielding the skin from sun damage, she realised the importance of sun protection to skin health overall.
In our perennial search for the right kind of sun protection for our skin, it can help to return to—and properly understand—the basics. Here to break down the most common queries and misconceptions are Tan-Chiam and Dr Uma Alagappan, an accredited dermatologist at The Dermatology Clinic.
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What exactly is SPF and its associated terms, like UVA, UVB and PA?
With its full form being ‘Sun Protection Factor’, SPF is a measure of how well a sunscreen protects the skin from UVB rays, which are responsible for sunburn and a major contributor to skin cancer, explains Alagappan. The factor number—the most common being SPF 15, 30 or 50—is a rough indicator of how much longer it takes for the skin to burn as compared to when it is unprotected. The higher the factor number, the higher the protection, but this still depends on the amount applied, whether there was any sweating or swimming, or if the sunscreen was reapplied.
You might also spot ‘PA’ on sunscreen labels very often. It refers to the protection grade against UVA rays, which can penetrate deeply to cause increased pigmentation, accelerated skin ageing and skin cancer in the long term. According to Alagappan, PA measures how much longer the skin takes to tan or darken with sunscreen than without it, which means the more the number of pluses, the longer the delay in pigment darkening.
As a general rule of thumb, SPF30 is usually sufficient for day-to-day activities, while SPF50 is recommended for sun-related activities. The recommended amount to use is 2mg per square centimetre of skin, with the practical measure being two generous strips of sunscreen along your index and middle fingers for the face. It should also be applied to the ears, hairline, backs of the hands and feet, and the back of the neck, 15 to 30 minutes before sun exposure.
Unpacking the ingredient list
With the basic technicalities debunked, the other key thing to look to is the ingredient list. Tan-Chiam recommends thinking about it in three parts: ingredients that protect the skin, ingredients that support it, and ingredients that help defend the skin against environmental stress.
“The first thing I look at is the UV filter system,” Tan-Chiam elaborates. “I generally favour modern, photostable filters such as Tinosorb S, Tinosorb M and Univul A Plus because they provide excellent broad-spectrum protection and remain stable under UV exposure.” Ultimately, though, she clarifies that there isn’t one single ingredient that determines how well a sunscreen performs—but the overall filter system instead.
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Antioxidant ingredients like vitamin E, green tea extract or niacinamide can also help boost skin defence—though it’s important to note that they do not replace UV filters. Instead, they defend against oxidative stress generated by UV exposure and other environmental aggressors. Newer ingredients, like ectoin and acetyl zingerone, are going beyond UV protection to build up skin resilience. “In a city like Singapore, where we’re exposed to strong sunlight, heat and pollution year-round, I think that’s a valuable addition,” notes Tan-Chiam.
Ceramides, panthenol, glycerin and hyaluronic acid are also noteworthy ingredients. “A sunscreen should protect the skin, but it should also leave the skin feeling healthy and comfortable enough that you’ll want to wear it every day,” Tan-Chiam reminds us.
Which sunscreen works best?
The Internet remains divided on the topic of sunscreens: specifically in the constant comparisons of mineral—or physical—sunscreens to chemical—or organic—sunscreens. The former contains zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide, while the latter contains UV filters such as Tinosorb S, Tinosorb M, Uvinul A Plus, Uvinul T150, Mexoryl, avobenzone and octinoxate.
As for how they work, mineral sunscreen sits on top of the skin and deflects UV rays without absorption, while chemical sunscreen uses compounds that absorb the UV rays and convert it to heat before releasing it. Alagappan explains that while mineral sunscreens work faster and are environmentally safer, they can leave a white cast. Chemical sunscreens provide excellent lightweight, invisible protection, Tan-Chiam observes, and are often more cosmetically elegant—making them easier to apply in the correct amount. Yet, they might also cause irritation or allergic reactions, depending on the formulation.
Ultimately, there is no definitive better sunscreen between the two—or in any particular format. ”The best sunscreen isn’t necessarily the one with the highest SPF; it’s the one that becomes a habit you can maintain every day,” Tan-Chiam highlights.
Another factor to consider is the climate and your specific skin needs. When formulating her line of sunscreen products, Tan-Chiam took into consideration the most common skin conditions she observed in Asian skin: hyperpigmentation, inflammatory skin conditions and skin barrier dysfunction. It’s why hydrating and skin-supporting ingredients are present in her formulations—”sunscreen should be part of your skincare routine, not something that sits separately from it.” On an individual level, “we commute, move between air-conditioned offices and the outdoors, exercise, wear make-up”, so it’s all about finding the right product format to fit sun protection into our daily routines. That being said, certain product formats perform better over others: Alagappan recommends topical sunscreens over other products like ingestible oral pills or UPF accessories like sun hats and sleeves, with creams, sticks and lotions providing more reliable coverage over sprays and powders.
The mechanics of UV exposure
If you’ve ever wondered how bad UV exposure can be, the answer is: it’s pretty serious. Going without sunscreen in the long term can lead to photoageing, pigmentation, and in the worst case scenario, skin cancer. Alagappan points out that skin cancers like basal cell and squamous cell carcinomas are largely due to cumulative sun exposure. It’s also important to note UV exposure doesn’t only happen on sunny days—UV rays can penetrate clouds and glass windows. For patients with melasma, or anyone who is particularly prone to pigmentation, sun protection is especially vital since UVA and visible light can exacerbate pigmentation.
The presence of melanin may provide some natural protection, but it is far from being sufficient. Alagappan notes that skin cancer can still happen to patients with darker skin tones, albeit at a lower rate. The reality is that photoageing happens to everyone as UV rays break down collagen. In fact, she found a higher prevalence of hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tones amongst patients with darker skin tones.
Reapplication rules and SPF cosmetics
And as much as reapplication seems optional, the truth is that it isn’t. Tan-Chiam says that her methods differ, depending on her needs for the day. If she’s outdoors or exercising, a sunscreen spray is the easiest and fastest way to top up sun protection. Whenever she’s wearing make-up, SPF make-up products can help touch up areas like the cheeks and lips without removing or disturbing the make-up underneath. UPF accessories, like visors and protective clothing, can also reduce UV exposure in the areas they cover—though Tan-Chiam emphasises that exposed skin still needs sunscreen and appropriate reapplication.
SPF cosmetics can, in fact, be very effective. Products that are labelled with a SPF rating have undergone the same standardised testing as sunscreens, Tan-Chiam points out. Yet, in reality, most people apply SPF cosmetics like blushes, skin tints and foundations too sparingly to provide the skin with adequate protection. It should be applied as an additional layer of protection, over a base layer of traditional sunscreen. SPF make-up can also offer another advantage: many tinted products contain iron oxides, which protect against visible light—an important trigger for conditions such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
The general rule? Reapply every two hours during prolonged outdoor exposure, and immediately after swimming, heavy sweating or towel drying. As for whether sun protection is needed because of blue light from computer screens, Tan-Chiam notes that the biggest source of high-energy visible light is still the sun. Reapplication doesn’t have to follow a schedule; it should be tailored to your needs instead.
After-sun care
It’s also important to take care of your skin post-UV exposure—especially in the event of a sunburn. For localised and mild sunburns, Alagappan recommends cold showers and damp clothes to cool the skin, alongside generous applications of moisturiser and ample hydration. Harsh soaps, rubbing and exfoliation should be avoided to prevent further skin irritation. If blistering starts to occur, she advises seeking medical care immediately.
Is sun protection for everyone?
Ultimately, the consensus is clear: sun protection is non-negotiable. There might be barriers that hold some of us back—the inconvenience of reapplication, the texture and the like—but it’s a vital aspect of our skin health. The most common misconception, Tan-Chiam highlights, is that sunscreen is only for people who wish to avoid wrinkles or stay fair, but keeping your skin protected helps your skin look brighter and more even on the whole. Instead of thinking of sunscreen as an all-or-nothing commitment, she reminds us that we don’t have to be perfect. “Consistency will always have a greater impact than perfection—the goal isn’t to have fairer skin, but to have healthier skin that continues to look and function at its best.”
