Hyperpigmentation is a common beauty woe amongst dark skinned individuals. Whether in the form of deep marks and patches on the skin or those persistent scars that never seem to fade, most of us with brown or dark skin have dealt with it in one form or another. While we’ve gotten diligent about protecting our face, arms, and even neck, there’s one often overlooked area left vulnerable to the overproduction of melanin. Which one, you ask? The answer: our lips. The reality is that dark skin tones are more prone to this because of the heightened melanin levels in our skin. However, according to a dermatologist, lip pigmentation is not solely a genetic trait; external factors also come into play, ranging from smoking to increased sun exposure. In the words of our trusted expert, Dr Sylvia Ramirez, Medical Director at the Cutis Medical Laser Clinics: “Darker skin isn’t flawed, it just produces more melanin, which can lead to visible pigmentation.” Dr Ramirez also highlights that “small, everyday habits such as smoking or licking may silently leave a lasting imprint on the lip,” which can worsen over time.
But fret not, we put our investigative hats on and got to asking the expert for the full scoop. Here’s everything you need to know about lip pigmentation as a person of colour, from causes to prevention and care.
What exactly causes lip pigmentation and is it generally more common among people with darker skin tones?
Multiple factors can lead to pigmentation of the lips, such as overexposure to sun, smoking, chronic irritation, hormonal changes and use of some medications. This pigment is more readily seen in those with medium to dark skin since they naturally have more melanin. This isn’t to say that darker skin is weaker; just that there are variations between them. The lips, which have sensitive skin and no sebaceous glands of their own, are especially susceptible to symptoms related to both internal and external factors that can build up over time.
Aside from genetics, what are the most common causes of lip pigmentation?
Hormonal imbalance is a major cause, mostly during pregnancy or while using birth control pills and menopause. These changes can render melanin production more dynamic. Sunlight is another strong determinant and daily UV in tropical areas can darken lips fast when not protected. Pigmentation is worsened due to the environmental irritants such as pollution, or involuntarily licking lips regularly. All of which helps to explain why lip pigmentation is a bothersome and often tenacious issue.
Are there certain ingredients in lip products that people with deeper skin tones should avoid to prevent worsening pigmentation?
Yes, irritants are best avoided. Fragrance or menthol and common irritants like peppermint, camphor and phenol feel cooling but are ultimately irritating to delicate lip skin, creating more pigmentation. Avoid application of very strong acids or any topical exfoliation directly on the lips. And, for anyone who’s darker-skinned, in whom the risk of pigmentation is higher already, gentleness is especially important. When you’re shopping for products, those that are fragrance-free and won’t cause irritation will help keep the lips in a harmonised, healthy state.
So in that regard, would there be certain ingredients to look out for in our lip products?
Seek out lip balms with an SPF of 30 or higher, and preferably containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide for broad-spectrum UV protection. The most effective are hydrating and barrier-repairing ingredients, including ceramides, shea butter, panthenol and niacinamide. Antioxidants such as Vitamin E work to counteract free radicals. In other instances, botanical extracts like licorice can help to delicately assist pigment harmony. Consistency is the key here—more than strength, especially in darker skin tones where over-treating can come back to haunt you.
What are some safe and effective treatment options and do you approach treatment differently for darker-skinned individuals?
Safety bets are inputs such as patch-tested, low-strength chemical peels, mild pigment-targeting topicals, and injectable hydration to enhance the quality of the skin around it. Lasers can be used occasionally, but it’s good to be careful with dark skin types for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The settings should be conservative, and the treatments individualised.
