Nothing tastes as good as healthy skin feels, right? The journey to achieving a luminous visage can feel like a long one, because nowadays there is so much information at our fingertips. With the global skincare market expected to reach sales of over $207 billion by 2028, you can bet there are bigger and better treatments, products, tools and innovation to come in this sector. Whether it’s how to look more naturally “snatched” or a more savvy and cost effective approach to a good skincare routine, below Vogue speaks to the experts to find out the biggest skincare trends for 2023.
A new wave of treatments promise to deliver the snatched skin that dreams were made of. EmFace combines radio-frequency with high intensity electric fields to boost collagen and elastin, firm the skin and ultimately boost the face’s underlying muscle structure for a more sculpted appearance. Needle-free and with no downtime, it’s the key to warding off sagging.
Meanwhile, in-demand aesthetic doctor Dr Sophie Shotter will launch her Advanced Collagen Remodelling Tweakment, a series of treatments that begins with the use of Allergan’s new hybrid injectable, HArmonyCa, to restore facial volume while promoting the natural production of skin collagen. The second, performed a month later, uses Volite, an injectable hyaluronic acid, to boost hydration and texture. You’ll also be sent home with an ingestible collagen supplement and retinoid cream to boost collagen from the inside-out.
At 111 Harley Street, a high-performance radio-frequency and micro-needling system called Potenza is set to resurface, lift and tighten skin—expect around one to two days of redness post-treatment.
There is no such thing as optimal skin health without a balanced lifestyle—deep down, we all know that. But according to The Future Laboratory, we’re increasingly opting to incorporate “science-led beauty formulas and tools that are designed to have direct health benefits”. Whether it’s Iräye’s lymphatic skincare, that topically activates the body’s lymphatic system, or the TheraFace Pro device which harnesses the powers of percussive therapy to reduce stress-induced facial tension and ease migraines (as well as cleanse the skin), the products we’ll be lusting after go much deeper than simply skin health—they’re also excellent for our overall wellbeing.
The new salon to visit
Facials are no longer simply about boosting the appearance of the skin, either. Andrea Pfeffer, who founded London’s ultra popular Pfeffer Sal clinic, has just launched her new venture, Salon C. Stellar. Yes, your skin will glow, but so will your soul, thanks to its offering of breath work, astrology, and nutritional therapy, alongside pack-a-punch facials: “Treatments need to be more than just one dimensional,” she says. “You need to walk out of the salon, having had a transformative experience that has multiple benefits, such as stress release or spiritual reassurance, in addition to achieving great skin.”
Prevention rather than cure
“Millennials and Gen-Z aren’t seeking a cure for ageing, simply because they have not yet aged,” says Dr Shotter. “They crave prevention and preservation. They embark on aesthetic treatments in their twenties and thirties, after finding very subtle signs of ageing.” While the procedures might be the same as those harnessed by their more mature counterparts, she says that the preventative (and, some may say, proactive) route is all about utilising lower doses and volumes of injectables, as well as milder device protocols.
Better your barrier
In 2022, we became very much at one with our skin barrier health—without it, we learned, there is no such thing as a fresh face. We will see more emphasis on nurturing this integral part of the skin this year, focusing even more on the microbiome (or skin flora) : “Any microbiome-unfriendly ingredients, such as alcohol, benzoyl peroxide and so on are disappearing from formulations,” says Dr Tiina Meder, cosmetic dermatologist and GetHarley clinician. “There will be a greater move to boost the microbiome specifically, using gentle prebiotic-based formulas, which will greatly help those suffering from acne, rosacea or skin sensitivity.”
A multi-layered approach to tackling different skin concerns, laser mixing allows for all areas of the skin to be treated in one session, according to facialist Debbie Thomas. It goes without saying that this must be performed safely by an expert in the field: “From acne breakouts to mottled pigmentation or a flare-up of rosacea, overall health of the skin will be stronger and more resilient,” she says.
Dr Anjali Mahto is also a big fan of laser, and says it trumps other skin clinic procedures for 2023: “Laser technology is far more effective than traditional office-based treatments, such as peels or microneedling, providing the person carrying out the treatments is experienced,” she says. “Use of effective fractional, non-ablative devices (where energy is delivered in columns and does not wipe out or destroy the top layer of skin) has allowed safer treatments in skin of colour, where clinical research data is limited.” She name-checks the Sciton Halo as a great treatment for acne scars, fine lines and wrinkles, textural issues and pore size.
Back to beauty school
For many years, curriculums and training have been geared towards white skin, which has meant that anyone who has studied towards any kind of skin qualification often did not have the expertise required to look after skin of colour safely. In a bid to help redress this major imbalance in the industry, skincare brand Haeckels will open its Beauty School in Margate at the end of January. Incorporating healing therapies and education on all skin colours and conditions, the courses will be geared towards all abilities, ages, sizes and cultural backgrounds, to ensure the next generation of therapists are trained to the highest standards.
IV drips for supercharged skin
While IV drips have become de rigueur to treat hangovers or a weak immune system, in 2023 luxury skin clinic, Ouronyx, is introducing an exciting new generation of vitamin drips that work on all levels of our health, including the skin. By taking blood and DNA testing, the clinic is able to design a bespoke cocktail of vitamins and nutrients and create the ultimate personalised supplement. As well as boosting all-round wellbeing, it also supercharges skin health and enhances the effects of facial injectable treatments, if you choose to have them. The very definition of beauty from the inside-out.
With the cost of living crisis, environmental issues and a general move towards more minimalistic skincare routines, we will be seeking out formulas that incorporate synergistic ingredients in one formula. It costs less, and it’s ultimately more effective. “When formulated correctly, the right ingredients at the right concentration in the right combination can create skincare magic,” says Dr Sam Bunting. “It’s a move away from the layering of single ingredient serums that we’ve seen a lot over the last few years. Now, it’s all about the super-layer that gets to work and saves you time.”
The online dermatologist
In the spirit of finding skincare that works hard for you and your skin type, Dr Emma Craythorne–who knows a thing or two about good skin—has created Klira, a custom prescription skincare platform. After a comprehensive online diagnostic test, you’ll be assigned a consultant dermatology nurse who will prescribe your skin a Klira Special, which houses a blend of active ingredients at the optimal strength and in the optimal base for your skin type—a fresh blend will be delivered to your address every 28 days. They will also curate the perfect supporting skin routine—all for $79 a month. Healthy skin, incoming.
4 new skincare buys to look out for in 2023
This story originally appeared on British Vogue.