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By Maya Menon
16 March 2025
Vogue Singapore's incisive runway reviews for the key shows at Paris Fashion Week
The vibe: And just like that, the fall/winter 2025 season has come to an end. Saint Laurent wrapped things up at the iconic Place Jacques Rueff, with a star-studded showing that saw celebrities such as Rosé, Linda Evangelista, Zoë Kravitz, Charli XCX, and Chloë Sevigny attend. As I’ve come to learn, an Anthony Vaccarello experience is simple yet incredibly tactile, engaging all the senses at once. Ornate onyx oval slabs encircled the runway and plush, soft black seats, while wafts of the brand’s signature scent filled the air. It was almost intoxicating—the vision of the Eiffel Tower glittering as showgoers entered a characteristically dimly lit venue.
The vision: Simplicity was at the core of this collection for Vaccarello. It is said that one can spot a Saint Laurent look from a mile away, “created with a few pencil strokes,” as the brand describes, and needless to say, this idea held true from the very first look. The collection honed in on construction, silhouette, and fabrics, playing with the sense of shape and perspective that many love the brand’s pieces for. These were intricately layered— a block blouse with a fluid pencil skirt, as signature as always, and as the looks went on, so did the layers. Sumptuous leather jackets followed suit, and the juxtaposition followed, unexpected yet expected.
What to shop from the collection: Surprise and delight were peppered throughout the lineup in a controlled manner. First, the colour palette of the collection stood out as one of the season’s more unexpected choices, introducing fresh tangerines and canary yellows. Then, the fabrics. Intricate long gowns in an assortment of lace and padding followed, impossibly sensual on the top yet almost fairytale-like on the bottom. A series of looks crafted from cigaline silk, printed with animal markings and floral motifs, were adorned with silicone, with models wearing nothing underneath. For me, these stole the show—from the fluidity of the material to how it seamlessly moved and sat on the body, recasting the mind’s eye when it comes to what one might perceive as a challenging material. And fittingly, given the season’s amplified conversation around sheerness, who better than Saint Laurent to master it?

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