Anthony Vaccarello’s reign at Saint Laurent has been quite the journey. Some might call it audacious, but the main consensus so far has been this: Vaccarello has mastered the art of sex appeal. Think: slinky minis, short shorts and decolletages galore—all of which made last night’s Saint Laurent fall/winter 2022 show in the city of lights an enlivening surprise.
Steering away from glitzy embellishments and flashy colours, there was a profound womanliness to the collection which opened with a silvery dress layered beneath a huge oversized pea coat. The outerwear that followed proceeded to be the running signatures of the fall/winter 2022 collection—expounded with black performative tuxedos with strong shoulders and fake fur coats.
It all makes sense, since this season pays homage to Vaccarello’s father. Monochrome colours and minimalism subdued the entire collection, making it a surprisingly conservative affair. In true Saint Laurent fashion, skin was still bared albeit sparingly, with halter floor-length silky gowns and low-cut statement blazers making a smoking appearance. Vaccarello also made sure to weave in Yves Saint Laurent’s love for Art Deco, while citing outfit references from the late British activist and writer Nancy Cunard. Overall, every look owed its touch of glamour to instrumental accessories, from chunky bangles to oversized sculptural earrings.
Vaccarello’s showing reinforced a line-up of modern-day Saint Laurent requisites: cool-girl leather; head-turning coats and reformed LBDs—all designed with Parisian flair bridled with nonchalance and ease. And frankly? It’s a different side to Vaccarello that we could certainly get used to.
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