A doll and a very real man. Adapted for the big screen by writer-director Greta Gerwig and Christopher Nolan, respectively, the life stories of these 20th-century icons have become the most talked-about films of the post-pandemic era. That the seemingly opposite projects—a quasi-musical about Barbie, with her Dreamhouse and hot pink aesthetic, and a biopic about J. Robert Oppenheimer, the father of the atomic bomb and destroyer of worlds—would open on the same day (that’s July 21, tomorrow!) and play side by side at movie theatres is a bona fide pop-culture phenomenon of its own. Like the popular saying goes: “Inside of you there are two wolves.”
One of these wolves has resulted in a deluge of content unlike anything we’ve seen before—can you even remember life before Barbiecore took over everything? Barbie is always happy and dressed like she’s got somewhere fun to be. In the movie, she’s outfitted in quite a bit of Chanel. She is also a beloved (and sometimes maligned) American product with decades of marketing behind her, so it makes sense that everyone grabbed onto this aesthetic. The crazier and more screwed up the real world gets, the more we find ourselves wishing for the “no thoughts, just vibes” lifestyle of our favourite plastic girl.
But you know who also probably wished for a “no thoughts, just vibes” lifestyle? One Mr. J. Robert Oppenheimer.
Of course, war itself could also be described as an American product with decades—nay, centuries—of marketing behind it. As vastly different as they look, these two films deal with similar subjects. Now I’m not saying that Oppenheimer is Barbie for men, though it’s true that people went as crazy for Cillian Murphy in a sheer Saint Laurent shirt at a recent premiere as they have for Margot Robbie’s many archival Barbie-inspired red-carpet looks. And that got me thinking about Oppenheimercore—what would an aesthetic trend created around darkness and destruction look like?
Most on the internet have equated Oppenheimer with a goth look, but Oppenheimercore is not just about wearing black—though it’s obvious bright colours have no place here. Oppenheimercore can be as classic as wearing a dark suit but with soft edges that symbolise the scientist’s turmoil. Oppenheimercore revolves around men with jobs—really important jobs. See the man in his Army uniform, see the man in his lab coat, see the man in his worker’s coveralls, his leather apron, his hazmat suit. Oppenheimercore explores the beauty of destruction and the physical and emotional toll of its aftermath. Oppenheimercore can even extend to include the lifelong anti-war efforts of our titular man.
Looking at the recent men’s collections through this lens was a playful thought exercise, the results of which are a bit of tongue-in-cheek cosplay, but it’s worth noting that it was easy to find matching looks. My guess is the sartorial influence of this movie will be reflected in seasons to come, but the malaise about the general state of the world, the sense that everything that we are doing will also eventually lead to our demise…. Well, let’s just say it’s a trending feeling.
If you’re curious, here’s an Oppenheimercore primer pulled from the recent menswear spring collections. Take from it what you need. (And in case you’re wondering, the correct order for a double feature is Barbie then Oppenheimer.)
This Oppenheimer is a classic
This Oppenheimer has military clearance
This Oppenheimer is a working Joe
This Oppenheimer is a Destroyer of Worlds
This Oppenheimer is considering what he’s done
This Oppenheimer retired and is now a pacifist
This article was originally published on Vogue.com.
