“September is the January of fashion,” said the eminently quotable Candy Pratts Price, a former Vogue editor in The September Issue. And it’s true. September not only represents the beginning of a new year of fashion with the launch of next spring’s collections, but it’s also the industry’s back-to-school moment.
Many years ago, Helmut Lang opted to show in New York City ahead of the European shows, spearheading the shift that saw NYFW become the first city on the fashion week circuit. This season, 18 years after he walked away from fashion, Lang’s—former—eponymous label is back making news at NYFW, with Peter Do in the driver’s seat, kicking off the official schedule. This is also a season of the anniversaries, with Coach’s Stuart Vevers, Rio Uribe’s Gypsy Sport, and Christian Siriano all celebrating milestones at their respective posts and labels.
Like most Septembers, this fashion week is especially party-heavy. There’s an endless lineup of cocktails, dinners, and pop-ups at which to reconnect with colleagues and friends. The events on our radar include a J.Crew concert featuring The Strokes, an SSENSE party with Jean Paul Gaultier and KNWLS, and a Linda Evangelista book-signing for her tome with Steven Meisel.
Speaking of books—for those who would much rather stay in and read than spend time at bars and fashion parties waiting for a tequila soda, this fall offers a lineup of literary fashion to peruse. Thom Browne and Collina Strada are both releasing monographs, and Carolina Herrera’s Wes Gordon is unveiling a special project he worked on over the pandemic. Read through for more on the week’s new names, the restaurants and hangouts to scout, and other fun things to look forward to at New York Fashion Week.
Is IRL shopping back?
Remember the good ol’ days of shopping IRL? When downtowners popped into Opening Ceremony to try on the latest arrivals—or to spot a celebrity or two—and when the in-the-know fashionphiles would rush over to Totokaelo for a designer drop? ESSX, a new retail operation on Essex Street in the Lower East Side is looking to bring them back. The multi-designer concept store opened in July, and its 7,000 square feet of floor space features the likes of Mowalola, Ottolinger, Edward Cummings, 4SDesigns, and Wales Bonner, in addition to a pop-up exhibition space. Fashion’s cool kids have been hanging out there all summer; this NYFW is your opportunity to join them.—José Criales-Unzueta
Peter does Helmut
Peter Do has been busy. His Banana Republic collaboration is hitting stores in October, and on Monday, we learned that he’ll be showing his eponymous collection in Paris. But what’s occupying most of his time these days is his upcoming debut at Helmut Lang. The show is scheduled for 2 p.m. on September 8, officially kicking off New York Fashion Week. Do has name-checked Lang as an inspiration for his own label—we’ll be on the lookout for what he’s got in store as he gives the dormant label some a round of CPR.—JCU
Victoria’s New Secret
Priming for a comeback, Victoria’s Secret is relaunching its annual Fashion Show under a new moniker. The World Tour will premiere on Amazon Prime on September 26 and feature none other than Doja Cat. To tease the show, the company is hosting a party ahead of NYFW that will shed some light on how it’s been reshaping its image since the original show was canceled in 2019 amidst allegations of harassment and bullying. Raul Martinez, EVP, head creative director of Victoria’s Secret, calls The World Tour “a celebratory moment representing the ultimate expression of our brand transformation.” On September 6, expect a sneak peek look at the new film and a surprise musical performance. Whether or not it’s Doja Cat, we’ll just have to wait and see.—JCU
Please welcome to the stage: Grace Ling, Advisry, and more
The official CFDA calendar this year is noticeably slimmer compared to last September. But even despite a reduced lineup, some promising newcomers managed to land slots: Advisry, Sho Konishi, Chan Chit Lo, and Grace Ling are part of New York’s next class of designers. “It’s a huge honour to have the backing of CFDA,” said Ling of having her debut show on the calendar, “it means that you’re officially part of the global fashion conversion and have the responsibility to shape the culture of today.” Off-schedule there are new names too. We have our eye on Jane Wade, whose fresh vision of workwear proposes a new—and undoubtedly cool—office uniform.—JCU
And welcome back…
This New York Fashion Week, there’s as many returning names as there are new ones. Ralph Lauren is coming back to the fold for the first time since before the pandemic, as are Jonathan Cohen, Rio Uribe’s Gypsy Sport, and Phillip Lim. Lim is feeling particularly hopeful about this comeback: “We live everyday in her unfiltered reality, audaciously seeking the possibilities of our wildest dreams and perennially fueled by the type of hope that only NYC can spring,” he said about his upcoming show.—JCU
And don’t forget the CFDA/Vogue fashion fund designers
For those curious about the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund Class of 2023, you’re in luck! With the exception of 4S Designs’s Angelo Urrutia, who showed at Paris menswear in June, most of the finalists are on the schedule this season. This will be the first New York Fashion Week appearance for Kozaburu’s Kozaburu Akasaka, and Sami Miró of Sami Miró Vintage. “Finding myself on the NYFW calendar for the very first time is an absolute honour, a dream woven into reality,” Miró said about this career milestone. “As I step into the spotlight, I am both humbled and electrified, ready to share my vision on Zero Waste through the language of fashion.” They will join Who Decides War, Kim Shui, Zankov, Colin Locascio, Diotima, Melitta Baumeister, and Tanner Fletcher for a week of shows and presentations.—Laia Garcia-Furtado
All the anniversaries
Was there ever a more fertile year for New York City fashion than 2013? A slew of labels and designers are celebrating their 10th anniversaries this year, and they’re all commemorating the milestone this season. At Coach, Stuart Vevers will be marking his decade at the brand with a show and dinner at the New York City Public Library. Rio Uribe’s Gypsy Sport is turning 10 too, and he’s returning to the city for the first time since spring 2020 for a celebration. If you’re trying to remember what you were doing in 2013, perhaps the words “Mansur Gavriel” will trigger a memory. Floriana Gavriel and Rachel Mansur, the makers of the era’s streamlined and colorful bucket bags, are holding a block party on the Lower East Side, complete with a “culinary experience by LEV.” Also having a special birthday is Christian Siriano, whose namesake label turns 15 this year. To mark the occasion he’ll host a show at the Pierre Hotel, complete with a special live performance.—LGF