The world of sport and fashion have more in common than we think—according to Miu Miu’s memo for spring/summer 2021, at least. Following a highly anticipated unveiling of her co-debut with Raf Simons at Prada, Miuccia Prada certainly did not let her stamina slow down at Miu Miu. “Fashion shows and sport are created to be watched—to entertain, to bring joy,” read the show notes. “They are performative phenomena, where an audience is necessary both for the event and the players, in a two-way exchange.”
Sportswear has arguably infiltrated daily sartorial lexicon, but this collection saw a bold redefinition of what athleisure should look like. Traces of athletic influence are clear: varsity stripes along the seams and sleeves of zip-up jackets, tennis-inspired polo tees, shackets in retro colourways of navy, ochre and fire engine red. There was a distinct youthfulness to the collection, be it in the ultra-mini skirts or Y2K-style halter tops. Football shoes were transformed into heels, and track pants were given a luxurious update. Opening the show was Lila Moss (the daughter of Kate Moss and Jefferson Hack), who debuted in a structured sport blazer and clear discs for earrings. Models all sported an eyebrow slit, possibly a nod to the varsity stripe—foreseeably a grooming trend Gen-Z can easily emulate.
The runway was an elliptical stadium, with panels of a sight we’re all familiar with by now: the Zoom grid. Audience members tuned in live to the show, very much like Netflix watch parties that have necessarily migrated online. In a time where spectatorship and performativity have become cancel culture fodder, Miu Miu’s semi-virtual, semi-physical show read as an astute diagnosis of 2020 so far.