The fashion powerhouse remains one of the most recognised luxury labels to date, with its distinctive monogram favoured by millions all over the world. For its autumn/winter 2023 collection, creative director Nicolas Ghesquière returns to the house’s roots, in particular, its French history. The conception of this collection began with an introspective glance into French street style.
With the show being held in a ballroom of Paris’s Musée d’Orsay, it was fitting that models emerged and strutted down an installation reminiscent of the city’s cobbled pavements. The soundtrack was produced by French composer Nicolas Becker and featured familiar street sounds of honking traffic, barking dogs and pouring rain. It created a larger-than-life atmosphere, one hat was dark and mystical while retaining elements of realism.
The garments were fittingly pared-back and minimal, with subdued colour palettes and relaxed silhouettes. The construction on some of this garments moulds to the wearer’s body, further accentuated in the campaign images with the models’ elaborate poses. Fine details were present in the fabric choices and construction, starting with a camel coat that turned out to be made of embossed printed leather, offering a unique texture and finish. There were strips of sequins running down hand-painted denim trousers, while countless tiny metal coils created a three- dimensional web-like embroidery that made up several of the dresses.
Signature accessories were reimagined in an explicit manner, with the GO-14 Malletage shoulder bag and supple calfskin biker gloves offered in patriotic shades of the Tricolore. There was a mini handbag in deep violet and piercing forest green that emulated a vintage Parisian street sign, while a larger companion resembled the house’s flagship Place Vendôme store. Ankle boots that created the visual illusion of pumps worn over knitted socks spoke to the savoir-faire of the maison. There were also references to the country’s prominent music and theatre scene, with several. models donning light-up face masks that paid homage to The Phantom of the Opera.
Ghesquière’s ability to remain versatile and ever-changing has always been revered and he has been deemed a design chameleon capable of exploringall themes from techno-punk to science fiction. This collection further cements his distinguished tenure at one of fashion’s top powerhouses and proves that French style is simply a way of life.
The July/August ‘Reverie’ issue of Vogue Singapore is available for sale online and on newsstands from 13 July 2023.