It’s that time of the year again. As the temperatures cool down in our tropical cities, most of us are planning for that annual vacation in search of a white, frosty Christmas. After all, the holiday season can only be cosy (huddled in a trusty puffer and potentially a cup of mulled wine in hand) when you’re in someplace frigid to begin with. In places like France, Switzerland and closer regions like Japan, South Korea and China, the powdery slopes are already open, with ski season being in full swing. But even those adverse to extreme snow sports would know that any visit to a winter destination will require an essential update to the skincare routine.
“The main problems we face in the winter are dehydration, which results in dry skin, flare ups of inflammatory skin conditions and surprisingly, use damage. In essence, the skin is undergoing stress in more ways than one—from harsh cold winds and a drop in temperature to central heating, hot baths and the insidious winter sun,” remarks aesthetic doctor Shauna Tan of David Loh Aesthetics.
Whilst cumbersome to weave into your packing kit, the alteration to one’s daily skincare routine is a crucial one, especially considering the long arduous days spent in harsh foreign climes. Ultimately, the first important step is to protect your skin barrier. which in turn protects us from environmental stressors and pollutants. However, achieving this isn’t as simple as “moisturising” everyday. In fact when it comes to moisturisers, Tan is eager to debunk a couple of misconceptions one has regarding occlusives in the winter. Other important considerations also include antioxidant rich products to minimise oxidative damage to the skin from environmental stressors while ensuring your products have inflammatory properties to calm down inflamed areas.
Below, she offers her sage advice whilst dropping her winter top-shelves.
Moisturise wisely, not in excess but in the right way
“Rather than using more moisturiser, it’s about using the right moisturiser,” advises Tan. In wintry and dry climates, using one with occlusives can help your skin prevent water loss, but might not serve well in tropical countries with high humidity and oil production—leading to bacteria growth and acne breakouts. But of course it varies between skin types. To that, she stresses on the right balance of ingredients. Tan discourages those with acne-prone skin to use moisturisers with plenty of occlusives. “It is a common misconception that using a thicker moisturiser will be more beneficial than a more lightweight moisturiser. Thicker moisturisers tend to have higher concentration of occlusives, whereas more lightweight moisturisers tend to have higher concentration of emollients and humectants. Occlusives act like an outermost layer to reinforce the skin barrier like cling wrap. There are also emollients that deliver lipids to build up the skin barrier and protect your skin from water loss, as well as humectants that draw water into themselves like a sponge!”
Don’t forget sun protection
“Many people assume that the cold temperatures mean less UV radiation, but unfortunately, sun damage during winter months can be deceivingly severe!”
Exfoliating should still go on
Many of us assume that exfoliating in the coldest of winter can be too much for our skin to take, but Tan wishes to debunk this misconception. “On the contrary, it is actually important to continue exfoliating during the winter months. It helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin while encouraging cell turnover. However, it is definitely important to switch out the type of exfoliant you use to something that is more gentle and less potent, to minimise damage to the skin barrier while we exfoliate. It is all about balance.” Her top tips for exfoliating are to stick to chemical exfoliants to avoid physical scrubs to avoid abrasive damage, choose milder solutions like lactic acid or azelaic acid, exfoliate only one to two times a week and to pair this step with a robust barrier restore cream or moisturiser as part of your routine.
Don’t stop using retinoids
Yet another misconception: the pause on retinoids or your Vitamin As. “We still want to continue to reap the benefits of skin cell renewal and skin brightening. The goal is to alter the routine slightly to minimise damage to the skin barrier.” To do so, choose a less irritative form of Vitamin A which includes retinaldehyde and granactive retinoid or hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) or a plant based derivative like bakuchiol. Her other tip is to abide by a sandwich method, to apply the retinoid between layers of your moisturiser.
Dr Shauna Tan’s winter-proof skincare must-haves
Barrier protection
Hydrating serums
Cleansers
Exfoliant
Retinoids
