For Hermès’ fall/winter 2025 Sellier collection, Nadège Vanhée drafted a new lexicon for power dressing—where leather meets grit in the best way possible. Unfolding across Paris and Shanghai in a two-part Sellier chapter, the first chapter unfolded at La Garde Républicaine across a runway raked in rich brown dirt, framed with curved felt walls, with models striding in pointed riding boots beneath sculpted jackets, long coats lined in wool and standout accessories to match.
At the collection’s core? Leather, lots of it. Resilient and seductive—cut into glossy coats, sheath dresses, moto jackets and tailored separates. Felt was coaxed into fluidity, flowing like leather. Knit sweater-scarves clung like second skins, ribbed knits swelled into generous sleeves, while quilted lambskin zipped sleek and straight. Cashmere and silk turtlenecks rose beneath goatskin pea coats; bomber jackets swayed in silk gabardine; collars doubled in wool. Hues pulled from earth and forest—cypress, linden, pine—folding into horse-browns, marble whites, and volcanic greys.
Accessories extended the Sellier narrative. Familiar icons like the Kelly and Birkin appeared alongside a mid-sized Evelyne, streamlined for urban wear, while textures ranged from felted surfaces to rich Rouge Sellier leather.
The second act opened in Shanghai. Staged at North Bund Bay, the pavilion’s sliding orange-lit panels revealed the skyline in flashes—conceal and reveal as choreography, echoing the modularity of the clothes. Coats unraveled into jackets, while overcoats reversed into blankets. Leather dresses split into gilets and skirts, saddle-flap shorts shifted form, marble-print coats unzipped with theatrical suspense. Across every seam ran the marks of thoughtful mastery: intricate perforations, fine stitches threading garments with a hidden narration of craft.
Textures converged with braided trims from the Dressage Tressage carré, quilted cashmere and double-faced wool drawn into fluid gestures of wrapping and tying. The styling spoke urban resilience: sweaters knotted at waists, headphones slung at the neck, mini bags carried crossbody or trailing behind, with striking riding boots complementing the ensembles.
Across Paris and Shanghai, Vanhée carved Sellier into a wardrobe of form and mutability. Hermès presented clothes built for a life in motion, anchoring the house once more in the language of leather, with an eye firmly on the present.
