Vogue’s best looks from the Hermès and Alexander McQueen fall/winter 2023 shows

Hermès FW23

10-word show review: Tonal muted looks and star accessories from shoes to bags.
Designer: Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski
Location: Garde Républicaine

The vision: Walking into the Garde Républicaine on 18 Boulevard Henri-IV was an Hermès homecoming. Walking onto a set drenched in sunset orange within every inch, there was a sense of calm knowing as to the exquisiteness that was to come. Guests settled within the fairly muted atmosphere—sans the flurry from major celebrities—most with the maison’s bags in tow. On the seats were neatly placed press notes that were an indication of what was to be expected: “She wears these interlacements, these knots found in nature. Sparkling reds, browns, yellows: so many fragments of winter light. Amaranth red, Falun red, fire red, copper brown, amourette brown, brass yellow and blond beige. Rose gold and moonstone.”

Signature style: For fall/winter 2023, Vanhee-Cybulski looked to the art of expert layering. Large coats and ribbed knits were synergistically paired; belted trench coats offered fluffy texture (only if you looked hard enough) and cashmere offerings appeared in the form of quilted jackets and hooded coats. The looks were presented in tonal order—in burnt orange, caramel brown and smoky grey—each one proving to be a palette cleanser from the one before. It is clear that Vanhee Cybulski’s vision for the Hermès woman this season is one of immense ease.

What to shop from the collection: The shoes were a definite focal point for this collection, namely, the square-toed knee-high suede boots that found themselves in various tones, created to perfectly match whatever ensemble it was paired with. Another standout piece was the maison’s parka which came with an accompanying bag and chain detailing—a design component that was so intricately weaved in it deserved a second look. There was something very fitting and beautiful about incorporating this amongst a sea of classic silhouettes. Impeccably timed.

Alexander McQueen FW23

10-word show review: Hyper theatrical suits, gowns and corsets inspired by human anatomy.
Designer: Sarah Burton
Location: Cour du dôme des Invalides

The vision: Marking Alexander McQueen’s first show in Paris since 2020, the brand’s fall/winter 2023 showing was a highly anticipated one. Throngs of fans crowded the Cour du dôme des Invalides as celebrities like Eddie Redmayne, Elle Fanning, Shygirl and Sadie Sink made their way into a spiral arena—also the runway for the evening. Stark projections of what seemed like blooming red orchids made their way onto the walls surrounding the crowd, hinting at the show’s beginning. It was later revealed that Sarah Burton’s inspiration for the collection was the human anatomy, making the ambiance of the space an incredibly fitting one.

Signature style: As soon as Naomi Campbell opened the show in an inky black corseted bustier and jumpsuit, the precedent for the evening had been set. What followed was a smattering of sharply tailored black suits, cinched by the theme of anatomical exploration: knitwear dresses manipulated into asymmetrical shapes, exaggerated hips and shoulders, shoes that were webbed to trousers and theatrical gowns with blooming prints.The consistency was masterful, unbelievable even, and each look across the men’s and women’s offerings was unrelentingly harmonious.

What to shop from the collection: Burton proves once again that even with the masterful precision and theatricality that makes Alexander McQueen as remarkable of a brand as it is, there are elements of each collection that still reach a wide net of fashion lovers. Take, for instance, the line-up’s intricate accessories, from the glistening silver ear cuffs to the bejewelled solo earrings. Coupled with the collection’s toned down looks (the denim jumpsuit, for example) McQueen’s mastery is truly and beautifully more democratic than one would think.