Ever since Demna’s Gucci takeover, the creative director has clearly been shaking things up at the house. Bringing his raw yet subversive take to the Italian brand’s familiar codes, his debut season and runway collection also came with another standout element: pieces designed around the body.
For his first pre-fall season, Demna takes another dig into the archives. The latest campaign, Generation Gucci, brings together the Italian house’s elements across different eras through a visual world lensed by the Georgian designer. Presented as a lookbook of an imaginary show that never happened, it continues his ongoing study of the brand while offering another glimpse at his distinct personal vision.
The collection’s ready-to-wear offerings start from a corporate casual footing, with fitted tailoring and pencil skirts setting the scene. Lightweight suits appear in archival silk faille that feels aged, while tops do away with buttons in favour of minimal clasps. There are also two-piece suits with legging-fit pants, minimal jeans with smooth construction, and refined travel suits in silk that carry the comfort of pyjamas, giving office-adjacent dressing a slicker finish.
From there, the collection slips into a party-ready mood. A leopard print appears across a slinky dress, while flowy skirts are washed with floral prints. Underwear-inspired pieces are worn with silk blousons, draped miniskirts come with matching tops, and eveningwear arrives through fluid gowns in jersey or silk chiffon. Then comes the real body territory: skin-tight leather jackets with matching pants, surfer wetsuit lines worked into a technical mockneck, and textured coats with a bathrobe-like ease. Glossy evening dresses continue the body-focused thread, clinging close while still holding that polished Gucci charge.
Demna’s archival digging also comes through in racer jackets marked with the Web stripe and equestrian-print silk ensembles inspired by house scarves. Belts are finished with a sliced interpretation of the Double G buckle, bringing another house signature into sharper focus. The accessories have been part of the buzz too, with Valigeria-inspired ballerinas returning in men’s sizes, while streamlined loafers are made with the unstructured lightness of dancing shoes. Stilettos come with cushioned footbeds and innovative seamless heels, while classic loafers are dotted with metal spikes.
The bags also bring signatures back into play, starting with the Jackie 1961 reimagined in a compact rectilinear shape in both calfskin and croc. The Dionysus takes on a new angular form, while the Lunetta Phone+ shoulder bag also appears in monogrammed canvas and chainmail. Another highlight is the Paparazzo, which makes its debut and is no doubt one of the key pieces to watch this season.
