For Tokyo-based Hermès collector Xiaoma, an encounter with a Hermès Kelly Doll bag sparked a life-long interest in the French luxury house. It was Xiaoma’s surprise at how such a small item carried a high price that made her consider Hermès handbags as a business idea.
“I kickstarted my company in Yokohoma in 2013. Without startup capital, I sourced bags for resellers in the industry. After accumulating some regular clients, I moved to Shinjuku and opened a boutique,” recalls Xiaoma. “It took three years after my business was launched to open my flagship shop in Ginza, marking the official commencement of Ginza Xiaoma.”
Opening a boutique at Ginza marked a major turning point for Xiaoma as it signified the beginnings of a growing enterprise. Soon, she found herself operating a flagship store and a second boutique in Hong Kong. Xiaoma came to lead a team of highly-skilled specialists and cultivated a strong reputation for herself as the go-to expert for Hermès bags. Fast-foward to today, Ginza Xiaoma is known industry-wide for its extensive Hermès collections and prestigious clientele.
With the further expansion of Ginza Xiaoma into Southeast Asia, Xiaoma launched her flagship store in Singapore at Ngee Ann City. The boutique is also the first space that Ginza Xiaoma is launching post-pandemic. In this boutique, clients can find the most popular iterations of the Birkin, Kelly and Constance as well as exotic skins, limited editions, special orders and top-tier collectible items. If you’re lucky, you might come across ultra-rare pieces like the Himalaya Kelly with diamond-encrusted hardware, the Kelly Doll Picto and the exceptional Birkin Faubourg. Also available are classic Hermès bags like the Lindy, Bolide and Picotin, as well as on-budget Hermès accessories.
When describing her interest in bringing Ginza Xiaoma to Singapore, Xiaoma shares that Singapore’s status as a Southeast Asian shopping destination with discerning fashion lovers makes it an obvious choice. Having already established strong relationships with local collectors, Xiaoma believes that the boutique’s collections of rare Hermès designs will be greatly appreciated. It would thus save collectors a longer trip to Tokyo or Hong Kong. “I look forward to meeting more Southeast Asian collectors who share the same appreciation for Hermès bags so we can learn from each other,” adds Xiaoma.
Aside from dedicating her business to Hermès products, Xiaoma is also known to have one of the world’s most exceptional Hermès bag collections. As stylish as she is business savvy, she passionately collects the house’s rarest pieces and shares her insider knowledge to let others in on the secrets she has acquired as an Hermès collector and connoisseur. Here, Xiaoma opens up about her private Hermès collection and offers some advice—from business to fashion—for aspiring handbag collectors and entrepreneurs.
How would you describe your personal style? Additionally, how do you incorporate Hermès bags into your outfits?
I would say chic and simple with touches of elegance and intelligence. I like to be comfortable and presentable to showcase my self-confidence and composure. The common pieces in my wardrobe are suit jackets and knee-length dresses that are fitted at the waist. As for accessories, I often reach for the Birkin and Kelly in neutral colours. I usually let my bags, shoes or watches be the finishing touches that speak for themselves.
Why do you think second-hand, vintage bags are still sought after today?
There’s a wide variety of choices available. In the secondary market, pre-owned bags might have some minor scratches at the corners, but they’re still ideal bags for their size, colour and leather combinations. Many vintage bags are also discontinued models that can’t be found in-store. From there, you can get a sense of the era they were crafted in as well as the style of that time.
How did you build your collection and what are some of your favourite pieces?
It took me 10 years to grow my collection bit by bit. I like to collect items with unique designs and distinctive textures, such as the vintage Mini Kelly 20 with special motifs. I’ll only acquire a piece if I can give its design, material, colour and motif each a high rating. I constantly review and update my collection, too. One of my favourites is the diamond-encrusted Black Porosus Crocodile Kelly 25. This bag is even rarer than the Diamond Himalaya and has a contrasting Rouge Vif interior that gives out a hint of sexiness. Another is the only Nami-chidori Vintage Mini Kelly 20 in the world with a traditional Japanese-style motif. The bag has a profound history and age. When appreciating this piece, it’s as if one is walking into a traditional washitsu with the distinctive scent of incense.
What bag in your collection would you consider the most valuable in the market right now?
Aside from the Himalaya collection, I believe the Sterling Silver Micro Kelly 15 has the highest market value at this moment. Not only because of its extreme scarcity, but also due to it being highly recognised in the market. The Kelly Doll bags have increased the most in value over the past decade as well. As for the recently released Birkin Faubourg Snowy and Midnight bags, their prices could potentially skyrocket in the secondary market. While certain vintage collectors’ pieces cannot rival the Himalaya collection in terms of market value, they are qualified to be curated pieces if there’s an exhibition on signature Hermès bags.
“Birkin and Kelly bags worth collecting are those made with unique materials.”
What bags do you think collectors should invest in right now?
The prices of classic Birkin, Kelly and Constance bags in popular hues like Noir, Gold and Étoupe continue to be steadily on the rise in the recent year or two. The market prices of the exotic skin ones, by contrast, are relatively stable. I recommend those seeking Hermès bags in rare leathers like crocodile, lizard and ostrich to consider bringing home one now. Others that are worth collecting are those made with unique materials, such as the rare metallic gold, silver and bronze Birkin and Kelly bags from the Olympic collection and the feather-embroidered Kelly.
My suggestion for buying a Hermès bag has always been this: It must be a bag that you like and are planning to use other than having it as an investment. For first-time buyers, a 25cm neutral-colour Birkin or Kelly would be great. If you’re planning to sell it later, try to keep your bag pristine so that its value is more likely to retain.
Looking back on your journey, what advice would you give to female entrepreneurs?
I recommend focusing on what one is the most skilled at and figuring out what one aspires to achieve in the long-term. It’s crucial to believe in your own business insight. The development of a company is never linear. There are bound to be bottlenecks and challenges, so it’s vital to remain calm regardless of the problems that crop up. I believe female entrepreneurs are able to achieve more by combining their strengths and gentleness together.
“Believe in your own business insight. The development of a company is never linear.”
Can you tell us more about Ginza Xiaoma’s upcoming NFT venture?
For Hermès enthusiasts, the maison’s most scarce hand bags are like collectible art pieces hanging on a museum wall that are never within reach. Thus, Ginza Xiaoma seeks to issue a batch of NFTs based on these bags that will be auctioned online, so that more people can own a portion of them like shareholders. As the value of the items appreciates, so do the NFTs, which can be sold later.
With regards to the virtual world, there are many interesting practices that are worth trying out in the luxury resale industry. Clients are concerned about unknowingly buying counterfeits, so the products authenticated and certified by us will come with a Ginza Xiaoma certificate of authenticity. Each pre-owned luxury item is unique, which fits well with blockchain’s incorruptible and traceable features. We hope to upload our certificates of authenticity on a blockchain in the future and bind them with the bags, so that clients can find a transparent transaction record of each item.
What’s next for you and Ginza Xiaoma?
Ginza Xiaoma’s 10th anniversary is this year in June and the goal is to refine its services. Customers are flocking back to our boutiques after the pandemic. What they can expect is a refreshing and warm experience that embodies the Japanese Omotenashi concept of hospitality. There will also be an expansion of the inventory at all three stores at Ginza, Hong Kong and Singapore so that they each house over a thousand bags. Events with professional stylists and international VIP clients are part of the plan as well. I’m also keen on creating a unique shopping experience that captivates a younger clientele through services like virtual fittings and bag exhibitions.
